Volkswagen Mark IV Front Big Brake Upgrade PDF Installation Instructions Manual

Tools and Equipment Required
18mm socket and ratchet (1/2” drive suggested), or wrench
17mm socket (1/2” drive suggested)
14mm wrench
11mm wrench
1/2” socket drive and ratchet (6 point suggested)
Torque wrenches capable 10-90 lb-ft settings
5mm Allen wrench
Small drip tray or several rags
1 pair of jack stands
Small funnel
Small blade screwdriver
Phillips screw driver
Brake bleed bottle
DOT 3 or 4 Brake Fluid
Additional items you may need include:
Adhesive backed lead wheel weights
Non-marring hammer or mallet

This Kit Incudes the Following:
1 pair of ST-40 4-Piston Calipers
1 set of high performance brake pads (Not suitable for track use)
1 pair of 328mm X 28mm AeroRotors
1 pair of caliper adapter brackets, with stainless steel mounting studs and hardware pre-installed.
1 pair of stainless steel covered Teflon brake lines.
- 1 pair of “C” clips for brake line brackets (used for VW kits only)
- 1 pair of Banjo Bolts
- 2 pair of copper washers
- 1 pair of rubber end caps
- 2 High temperature Ty-Wraps

Caliper, Hat and Bracket Finish Disclaimer
Many wheel-cleaning solutions contain strong acids that may damage the finish on any caliper and or aluminum anodized finish, especially the plating on the hardware. Check for adverse effects by trying a small amount of the cleaner in question on an inconspicuous area. Avoid
over spraying, and rinse the cleaning solution off as quickly as possible. STOPTECH will not be held liable for damage to caliper, hat or bracket finish due to corrosive chemical exposure.

Step 1
Jack up the car.
Apply Parking Brake and properly block rear wheels.
Remove plastic wheel nut covers using the factory supplied tool.
Brake loose the lug nuts on both front wheels with a 17mm socket (for stock wheels) before jacking up the vehicle and secure on a pair of jack stands. Or jack one side only using a single jack stand of suitable load rating.

Step 2
Remove Wheels
After securing the vehicle at a convenient height, remove the front wheels.

Step 3
Remove Inner Brake Line Connection
WARNING – Brake line fluid will damage most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled brake fluid from any painted surfaces.
Place a drip tray or several rags directly below the inboard brake line connection. If the area around the connection is dirty, clean with brake cleaner or appropriate cleaning agent
Note- Be sure the cap is securely installed on the master cylinder. If the cap is loose or removed, it is likely more fluid will drip.
Using an 11mm wrench, loosen and remove the hard line fitting from the stock brake line.
Note- Brake fluid will drip onto your hands during this operation. Latex gloves may be preferred.
Be aware that brake fluid will soak through fabric or leather gloves and transfer to everything touched after that. Quickly place one of the rubber
caps over the end of the hard line. This should effectively control fluid loss for the duration of the installation.

Step 4
Remove Stock Calipers
On left side only of the TT is a brake pad wear sensor.
Separate the male end of the brake pad wear sensor connector (wires attached to the brake pad) from the female connector (wires attached to the chassis side).
Use a small blade type screwdriver in the chassis side of the connector to release the 2 parts.
Disconnect brake line from strut as shown: If not done so already, please read Step 12 on page 15. The end of the plug attached to the brake pads on the left side of the vehicle will need to be modified to prevent the “Brake Warning” light from coming on. You may want to make this modification at this point as the rotor assembly will not be in the way. – Loosen the stock caliper mounting bolts with a 18mm wrench or socket. Remove the caliper with stock line attached. Be aware there may be some leakage from the open end of the brake line, but it should remain fairly dry unless the pads/pistons on the caliper are retracted.

Step 5
Remove the Stock Rotor
Remove the Phillips head screw holding the rotor.
Note- Rust and corrosion may make this screw difficult to remove. Be careful not to strip the screw head. If screw does not easily come loose, try a penetrating thread lubricant to loosen the threads. If bolt is not easily removed, consult a professional mechanic of brake technician for assistance.
Be sure to prevent rotor from dropping as bolt is removed.
In some cases the rotor may be rusted or corroded into place. Again, a penetrating type oil may help loosen the rotor. In severe cases it may be necessary to tap the rotor off with a non-marring hammer or mallet.

Step 6
Install Caliper Bracket
Install the caliper adapter bracket to the upright on the stock caliper mounting lugs using the stock mounting bolts. The pre-installed studs face forward, and the bracket mounts on the inboard side of the caliper mounting lugs on the upright. The round boss goes under the bolt head.
Torque the bolts to 90 lb-ft. The factory bolts have a locking feature built into the retained washer. DO NOT use any thread locker such as Loctite™.
Again, it may be necessary to turn the wheels in order for the wrench handle to clear the wheel well.

Step 7
Install AeroRotor Assembly
Non-plated rotors MUST be washed with soap and water prior to installation.
Install the pre-assembled AeroRotor and aluminum hat assembly onto the spindle using the stock Phillips head screw.
Be sure the rotor assemblies are on the correct side of the car. Reversing the rotors will severely decrease the cooling capacity of the system. The vanes inside the rotor should lean to the rear of the car on the top-side of the rotor. See green Break-In Procedure Sheet to determine rotor direction. See next page for proper orientation.
Rotate the rotor assembly and check that the backing plate (dust shield) is not touching the rotor.
If there is interference, simply bend the plate out of the way where there is interference.

Download Volkswagen Mark IV Front Big Brake Upgrade PDF Installation Instructions Manual