Toyota GT28R Hybrid Stock Twin Turbos PDF Installation Manual

Section 1: Disassembly of the turbo system
The first task is to start removing all the parts/pipes/vacuum lines to allow access to the turbochargers. BE SURE TO SOAK ALL TIGHT NUTS & BOLTS WITH ‘PB BLASTER’ PRIOR TO REMOVAL! This will cut down on wasted time. Take your time and follow the repair manual step-by-step until you are down to only the turbos and exhaust manifold remaining, then move on to SECTION 2.

Section 2: Health check of sequential operation system
Upon removing all of the turbo system to reach the turbochargers, you need to check the health of the main components that operate the turbo’s sequential system. These items include the VSVs (Vacuum Switching Valves), actuators, and pressure tank. Failure to do so may result in the turbochargers not boosting properly and you having to fully or partially disassemble the turbo system! Here is an enlarged diagram of the locations
of the items noted below: Here are the items to check…
1. (IACV) Intake air control valve VSV: 38.5 ohms – 44.5 ohms
2. (EGCV) Exhaust gas control valve VSV: 38.5 ohms – 44.5 ohms
3. (WG) Wastegate control valve VSV: 22.0 ohms – 26 ohms
4. (EBV) Exhaust bypass control valve VSV: 22.0 ohms – 26 ohms
5. (IACV) Intake air control valve actuator: Apply 7.1psi of air pressure to the nipple and ensure the valve opens.
6. (EGCV) Exhaust gas control valve actuator: Apply 7.1psi of air pressure to the nipple and ensure the valve opens.
7. (WG) Wastegate control valve actuator: Cap off one nipple, and apply 17.4psi of air pressure to the other nipple. The wastegate control valve should fully open.
8. (EBV) Exhaust bypass control valve VSV: Cap off one nipple, and apply 14.2psi of air pressure to the other nipple. The exhaust bypass control valve should fully open.
9. Pressure tank: The actual pressure tank itself is located underneath the intake manifold and is a pain to get to. So, using the picture below showing the vacuum hard lines going from the turbos over to the pressure tank, check to make sure air flows from Port A through Port B, but NOT from Port B through Port A. Also apply 18 in/hg of vacuum to Port A, and ensure that vacuum doesn’t change after 1 minute. This test can also be
done by putting a vacuum cap on the hard line for Port B, and then pressurizing the hard line for Port A. After 1 minute, remove the vacuum cap off Port B and listen for air to be released.

Section 3: Reinstallation of the new turbo kit
After removing all of the piping, heat shield, and oil and water lines, you have a choice of either taking off the complete stock system manifold and all, or just remove the nuts that hold the OEM turbo’s onto the exhaust center section (Turbine Outlet Elbow). There are 6 bolt/nuts on each turbo section. It is highly recommended that you spray PB Blaster religiously the night before to loosen up the nuts. The same goes if you decide to remove the manifold as well. See attachments for parts description and location. Also, when tearing things down, I should mention about the parts that I expect to re-use when installing the new system.
• All 4 metal piping gaskets. 2 Inlets, 2 outlets
• Metal (EBT) Exhaust Bypass Tube gaskets (2)
• Multi Layer Turbine Outlet Elbow gaskets (2)
• 8 Hose clamps from the stock water lines. They will work with the new system.
• Oil inlet Banjo bolt 12MM from the block. The kit includes (4) new crush washers.
• Stock 1-7/8” ID IACV (Intake Air Control Valve) Rubber coupler hose. Needs to be cut down to 3-3/4” from 4-3/4”
• Stock metal Exhaust manifold gaskets. Inside and outside.
• Exhaust outlet to Down Pipe metal “O” Rings (3)
These are the basic items with the turbo charger system. All other items associated with the removal are reused such as nuts and bolts. A list of replacement part numbers are listed below if you want to order all new metal gaskets. I have given all the Toyota PN’s for these.

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