Suzuki DL650 and DL1000 V-Strom PDF Installation Manual Guide

Suzuki DL650 and DL1000 V-Strom Installation guidelines:
1. Use Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Torque the 6mm bolts to 6ft. lbs.
2. Review all the photos first so you get a good idea of how this installation proceeds.
3. Remove the seat and or review your DL Owner’s Manual on a step by step of how to “Prop up” the gas tank.
4. Remove the beauty cover on the front of the fuel tank by removing the (2) pushpin fasteners. Using a ball point pen, push on the center of these “push tab retaining plungers” just enough to release the tension on the expanded plastic and then remove the whole retainer, by pushing it out from the backside. It comes out as one piece, center pin included. It reinstalls when finished, in the reverse fashion.
5. Remove the dark-plastic-fuel-tank side panels on each side of the tank.

6. Remove the painted portions of your fairing by reviewing your DL Owners manual. It has a section to step you through this operation. Don’t be tempted to try and install this kit without removing these fairing sides.
7. Remove the long front fuel tank bolt that goes in from left to right and remove the rear, 12mm fuel-tank mounting bolt. Now carefully lift the fuel tank up and then backwards setting it on the air box area as per your “Prop up” page of the DL Owners Manual. You only need to move it back far enough so the fuel tank mounting bracket will have clearance to come out. You now have access to all (3) fuel tank mounting bracket bolts.
8. It’s important to retain the “grommet-spacers” in the rubber grommets of this fuel tank bracket just as they came from the factory. Make note of how they are installed before removing. Remove the (3) bolts holding the tank frame bracket to the frame. You should be able to lift up on this entire bracket now, keeping in mind the outer fairing struts are pressed into rubber grommets outboard via a tight slip fit. Gently pull up on the outboard side where these fairing braces press into the rubber biscuits and they will pop out. You can remove the whole tank bracket now, keeping track of those grommet spacers, as they can fall out.

9. When the fuel tank bracket goes back on later, you will put (2) 6mm washers between the frame and the bottom side of the bracket on the 2 rear tank bracket bolts only. This is to compensate for the added height created by our frame bracket. The goal, when finished re-installing the fuel tank bracket, is to have it mount flush with the frame. You can use a little glue to keep those (2) washers in place, so alignment of the fuel tank bracket is easier. If necessary, you might have to use more or less washers to achieve this flush mounting with the frame so the rear tank bolt aligns.
10. The Scotts frame bracket has a precision recessed hole on the underside, that is designed to fit over the forward aluminum lug on the frame, see photo. On rare occasions, the lug on the frame, being cast, can vary in size. It may need slight filing to allow for our frame bracket to slide over the top of it. Install the frame bracket and temporarily install just (1) tank bracket bolt in the hole so our frame bracket is aligned straight ahead and is tight. Once aligned, gently seat the (4) set screws against the frame using Loc-tite and then make 1/8 turn farther. DO NOT over tighten these set screws as they are intended to merely fill the gap between the frame and the bottom of our frame bracket. They also stabilize the frame bracket from left to right motion. If you over-tighten them, you will simply be “jacking” the tank bracket bolt upward and jeopardize the threads. Since all the DL frames vary from bike to bike, we’ve allowed you to adjust each bracket to fit every combination of frame variation by using these set-screws. You only need to tighten them enough so they won’t come loose during use. The center bolt is only to hold it in place, the bracket foot print provides the strength during use. If the rear tank bolt does not line up, re-do the process stated above and or loosen all the tank mounting hardware until you can find common ground, so everything lines up. (Only On rare occasions you may need to elongate the two rear, outer tank bolt bracket holes to align the tank mounts.)

11. Now carefully remove the temporary center bolt and while maintaining your alignment, install the stock tank bracket on top of our frame bracket. To ease installation, squirt a little WD-40 on the fairing stabilizer plunger points to assist their entry into the rubber grommets on each side. The forward tank bracket bolt is replaced with the longer 6×30 Allen bolt provided in the kit. The (2) stock 6×20 rear tank bolts are retained (and the new spacer washers should be underneath this bracket as explained in #9.) Install all 3 bolts and tighten using Loc-tite.
12. Install the new upper handlebar clamp with the “SCOTTS” logo reading correctly as you sit on the bike. Using the stock bolts and washers, tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gap between the bar mounts is equal, front to back. Note: Hang on to your bars as you loosen your stock bolts, so the bars don’t suddenly fall.
13. Install the steering stabilizer to the new barclamp using the (2) 6×20 Allen bolts provided.
14. Grease and install the “floating” tower pin into the tower of the frame bracket. Keep it greased and floating. See your manual for details on “How to” adjust the tower pin height, should it need to be done.
15. Move the bars slowly left to right and be sure you have everything aligned, tight, and so that when your bars are aiming forward the linkarm of the stabilizer is straight and also that no cables are pinched or in harm’s way.
16. Re-assemble your body panels and fuel tank in the reverse order that you removed them.
17. Your stabilizer Owners Manual gives details on adjusting your stabilizer and how the valving circuits function.
18. Should you have any questions please feel free to call 818 248-6747, we are here to help you.

Download Suzuki DL650 and DL1000 V-Strom PDF Installation Manual Guide