Citroen 4-Cyl. Injection Engines Mounting PDF Installation Instructions

STEP 1: Find the static timing point FOR ID/DS :
Manual 4 speeds gearbox and Citromatic (BVH) gearbox: remove the front license plate and insert the starting handle through the hole in the front valence to engage the starter dog in the front of the gear box. Alternatively, and on manual 5 speed transmissions: jack up the left front wheel and put the car in 5th gear, so that the engine may be turned by turning the wheel.

On the old distributor, note the position of the ignition wire to the number one (front) cylinder. Remove the distributor cap and turn the engine so that the rotor points to the number one cylinder position, as previously noted. Insert a 6mm (15/64 inch) pin or drill bit into the timing hole on the left side of the clutch bell housing, below the alternator mounting bracket. Now carefully turn the engine until the pin engages the hole in the flywheel. The engine is now at the static timing point, near the end of the compression stroke for the number one cylinder. This point corresponds to 12 degrees before Top Dead Center on engines built before July 1st 1971, and to 0 (zero) degrees on engines built after July 1st 1971.

For ID/DS’s from before 1965 it is necessary to make a direct connection between the ‘minus’ of the battery and the housing of the 123DS, using one of the M5-trheaded holes in the 123DS-housing. REMOVE THE 6mm LOCATING PIN !!! Go to step 2.
FOR CITROEN-HY and TRACTION AVANT : On the old distributor, note the position of the ignition wire to the number one cylinder. Remove the distributor cap and turn the engine so that the rotor points to the number one cylinder position, as previously noted. Insert a 6mm (15/64 inch) pin or drill bit into the timing hole. Now carefully turn the engine until the pin engages the hole in the flywheel. The engine is now at the static timing point, near the end of the compression stroke for the number one cylinder. This point corresponds to 12 degrees before Top Dead Center.
Make a direct connection between the ‘minus’ of the battery, and the housing of the 123DS, using one of the M5-trheaded holes in the 123DS. ( This is a MUST for these types! ) REMOVE THE 6mm LOCATING PIN !!! Go to step 3.

STEP 2: Mark the static timing point Using a narrow line of white paint, mark the camshaft pulley at the point where the timing scale reads 0 (zero) degrees. If you don’t have a timing scale, you have to make your own. For engines built after July 1971, turn the crankshaft 12 degrees backwards. The white line on the pulley now points at 6 degrees on the timing scale. ( as the cam-shaft rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft, 12 degrees rotation of the crankshaft corresponds logically to 6 degrees of the camshaft )

STEP 3: Out with the old, in with the new
You may wish to verify that the correct advance curve has been selected in your ’123′ : using a 5mm Allen wrench remove the plug in the bottom face of the housing. Inside the hole you’ll find a 16 position rotary switch, marked ’0′ to ‘F’. Check the mode switch table below for the proper setting. Re-insert the plug and tighten securely. Now remove the spark plug wires and coil wire from the old distributor cap and remove the
old cap. Disconnect the points wire from the coil. Unscrew the hold down nut at the base of the distributor and pull the old unit out. Transfer the clamp plate from the old distributor to your new ’123′, and tighten the clamp gently so that the distributor can still be turned with some effort. Now remove the cap from the ’123′ and carefully insert the ’123′ in the hole, turning the rotor until the drive gears mate and the unit falls into place. Rotate the housing of the ’123′ so that the cables come out conveniently. If necessary, the drive gear can be repositioned on the shaft to accommodate a different rotational position. To do this, remove the ’123′ and carefully remove the retaining spring from the drive gear, then use a small punch to tap out the pin and re-assemble at an angle more suitable to your needs.

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