Trailer hitch bracket and receiver This vehicle is equipped with a trailer hitch bracket and a 5 cm (2 in) receiver for a stan- dard trailer hitch. Trailer towing equipment can be obtained at a Yamaha dealer. (See pages 6-11–6-13 for precaution information.) Auxiliary DC jack The auxiliary DC jack is located at the right side of the front panel. The auxiliary DC jack can be used for suitable work lights, radios, etc. The auxiliary DC jack should only be used when the engine is running

Seat belts This vehicle is equipped with three-point seat belts for both the operator and the passenger. Always wear the seat belts properly while riding in the vehicle. See pages 7-6–7-8 for more information Seats To remove a seat, pull its seat lock lever up- ward, lift the front of the seat, and then slide the seat forward and up

Parking brake lever The parking brake lever is located at the right side of the driver’s seat. It will help keep the vehicle from moving while parked. To set the parking brake, pull the lever up completely. To release the parking brake, pull up on the lever, press the release button, and then push the lever all the way down. Spring pressure helps return the lever to the released position

Accelerator pedal Press the accelerator pedal down to increase engine speed. Spring pressure returns the pedal to the rest position when released. Al- ways check that the accelerator pedal returns normally before starting the engine. This vehicle is equipped with an On-Com- mand four-wheel-drive switch “2WD”/“4WD” and a differential gear lock switch “4WD”/ “LOCK”. Select the appropriate drive accord- ing to terrain and conditions. ? Two-wheel drive (“2WD”): Power is sup- plied to the rear wheels only

Fuel meter The fuel meter indicates the amount of fuel in the fuel tank. The display segments of the fuel meter disappear from “F” (full) towards “E” (empty) as the fuel level decreases. When the “E” segment disappears and the fuel level warning indicator flashes, refuel as soon as possible

Coolant temperature warning light “ ” If the coolant temperature reaches a specified level, this light comes on to warn that the cool- ant temperature is too hot. If the light comes on during operation, stop the engine as soon as it is safe to do so and allow the engine to cool down for about 10 minutes

Reverse indicator light “R” This indicator light comes on when the drive select lever is in the “R” reverse position. Furthermore, this indicator light flashes when the engine is being raced for 10 seconds or more. If the indicator light flashes under any other circumstances or the speedometer does not show the speed while riding, have a Yamaha dealer check the speed sensor circuit.

Download Yamaha YXR66FW Vehicle PDF Operation Instructions Manual

Post from: Free Download Automotive PDF Manual

Yamaha YXR66FW Vehicle PDF Operation Instructions Manual

License Plate Mount Installation: Locate the aluminum license plate mount and license plate light assembly. If you have the alternative DOT taillight/license plate mount go to step 9B. Remove the rear most nut securing the stock taillight assembly (underneath the fender) (don’t lose the little compression tube and washer). Temporarily install the license plate mount to this location and mark the fender where it needs to be drilled for the rear mounts. Drill the fender in two places with a 1/4” drill and reinstall the license plate assembly using the stock taillight mount and the 6 x 20 mm countersunk screws, bezels and nylock nuts (Photo 2). Run the wires forward along with the taillight wires and up through the grommet in the fender.

Optional License Plate/DOT Taillight Installation: Remove the lens from the stock taillight. Remove the three nuts holding the gray taillight base
to the fender and remove base. Locate the 6 x 25 mm bolt supplied with other taillight mounting hardware (small bag #3) and a compression tube from the stock taillight (little brass colored tube that fits inside rubber grommet. Temporarily install the license plate bracket assembly using the rear most taillight mounting hole to determine the drill locations of the two rear mounts (You will have to remove the taillight temporarily to be able to mark the fender). Mark the fender and drill in two places with a 1/4” drill. Install the license plate hanger to the rear most mounts using the 6 x20 mm countersunk screws, bezels and nylock nuts. (Photo 3). Make sure to install the taillight ground wire under the nut for the left hand stud (Photo 4). Run the wires forward and up through the grommet in the fender.

A plastic cover is supplied to cover the opening left by the stock taillight. Transfer drill a hole in the fender for mounting the plastic cover. Install the compression tube provided between the cover and the bottom of the taillight well. Rear Turn Signal Installation: Turn signal mounting requires that you drill a 3/8 inch hole in either side of the rear fender near where it meets the side panels. You can achieve a clean, durable installation using this mounting location. Mount the rear turn signals by drilling a 3/8 hole in the rear fender in the location shown in Photo 5, 1-3/4 inches back from the front edge (edge just behind subframe) and 2-1/16 “ up from the bottom edge.

Run the left turn signal wires forward along with the taillight wires, up through the grommet in the fender to the area just behind the airbox cross member and above the fender. Run the right turn signal wires forward along the right frame rail, and up to the same location behind the airbox.

The WR 400 uses a hydraulic brake switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the rear brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the rear master cylinder guard. Remove the bolt holding the brake fluid reservoir to provide access to the master cylinder. Loosen the banjo bolt securing the rear brake line to the master cylinder. Typically, this bolt will be very tight and loosening it will bend the support hanger for the master cylinder if not supported. Brace the master cylinder with a wrench or lever as shown in Photo 7.

Download Yamaha WR 400 PDF Installation Instruction Manual

Post from: Free Download Automotive PDF Manual

Yamaha WR 400 PDF Installation Instruction Manual

• Welded Frame Assembly (x1) • Roll Bar Extension (x2) • Driveshaft Cover (x1) • Rear Driver Floor Mat (x1) • Rear Pass. Floor Mat (x1) • Shifter Bracket (x1) • Extended Throttle Cable (x1) • Extended Brake Line (x1) • Transmission Coolant Line (x2) • Engine Coolant Line (x2) • Extended Drive Shaft (x1) • Extended Shift Lever Rod (x1) • Seat Belt Set (x2) • ½” Washer (x6) • ½”-13 x 1 ½” Long Bolt (x4) • ½”-13 Lock Nuts (x4) • ¼”-20 x ½” Long Screw (x21) • 3/16” Rivet (x24) • 1½” x 5/8” Spacer (x2) • 1 ½” Hose Clamp (x4) • 5/8” Hose Clamp (x4) • #10-13 Self Tapping Screws (x20) • Wire Spools (x6) • Crimp Connectors (x100) • Roll Electrical Tape (x2) • Hook Up Wire 18 Gauge Brown (1 Roll) • Hook Up Wire 18 Gauge Red (1 Roll) • Hook Up Wire 18 Gauge Black (1 Roll) • Hook Up Wire 18 Gauge Blue (1 Roll) • Hook Up Wire 18 Gauge Yellow (1 Roll) • Hook Up Wire 18 Gauge Green (1 Roll) • Hook Up Wire 18 Gauge White (1 Roll) • 4 Gauge Starter wire (2 x 3ft) • 4 Gauge Butt Connectors (x4) • Air Breather Extension (3ft) with 2 clamps (2008 only)

TOOLS REQUIRED FOR ASSEMBLY Ensure that you have the following tools available before you begin the assembly of your BeaverPro™ Yamaha Rhino cab kit. Note: Assembly requires two people. Electric Welder Crimp Tool Reciprocating Saw With Metal (2x) 3/4” Wrench or Socket Blade or Hacksaw 7/16” Wrench Angle Grinder Electric drill Paint Spray Gun or Can of Black 5/32” drill bit Spray Paint Utility knife Wire Cutters Rubber Mallet Wire Strippers

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS For the steps involving dismantling or assembling OEM parts on your Rhino, please refer to service manual for full instructions. Note: Save all hardware for re-assembly. 1. Disconnect battery 2. Remove both seats 3. Remove engine cover 4. Remove shift lever and shift link rod 5. Remove plastic covers in front of seat brackets 6. Remove plastic floor (Do not cut until later step) 7. Remove driveshaft 8. Drain transmission and engine coolant 9. Remove transmission cooling lines 10. Remove engine cooling lines 11. Remove throttle cable 12. Drain brake fluid 13. Remove rear brake line 14. Cut Factory Harness a) Unwrap the electrical tape on the factory harness running above the floor pan of the UTV. b) Label each end of the separate wire bundles with marking tape and a marker. Cut between pieces of masking tape. c) Repeat previous instruction until all circuits have been cut.

15. Cut Roll Bar and Frame Note: To prevent injury, support the underside of frame on either side of cut with jack stands or other appropriate support. a) Cut the lower frame and metal floor pan in the location shown at right. The cut is 1” from the inside of the round cross member at the front of the UTV. Cut upper frame in the straight section of the top of the roll bar. Ensure that all cuts are square to roll bar and frame tubing. b) Cut airbox tube above floor pan leaving a minimum 3” straight section of tube on either side of cut. c) Separate both parts of ATV so that you have a gap of about 40” between the two parts. d) Drill three ¼” holes on end of cut roll bar tubes as shown on right. These holes are used to hole weld assembly in next step.

16. Install Frame Assembly a) Install the provided frame assembly and roll bar extenders between both ATV halves. Support, brace and jig so that all frame and roll bar tubes are aligned and square. NOTE: This is the most critical assembly step of the entire installation. Any misalignment here can result in handling and steering problems later. Carefully check alignment before continuing to step 17. b) Hole weld frame assembly in holes drilled in frame in step 15c. c) Recheck alignment and square of all tubes. d) If a misalignment needs to be corrected, re-drill holes and reposition frame in step 16a. 17. Fillet weld 4 cut roll bars on either end. 18. Fillet weld 2 cut frame rectangular tubes on either end. 19. Stitch weld new floor pan to existing floor pan. 20. Grind all welds if cosmetic appearance is required. 21. Paint all welds using textured black paint. 22. Extend factory harness. a. Extend each wire of the factory harness with a 32” piece of wire (provided) and two butt connectors (also provided). b. Repeat previous step until all circuits have been extended by 32”. c. When all wires have been extended, rewrap the harness with the electrical tape provided. Note: Use 4 gauge wire and connectors provided to extend the two conductors coming on the battery. 23. Install transmission cooling lines using provided 3/8” ID hose and 5/8” hose clamps.

24. Install engine cooling lines using provided 7/8”ID hose and 1 ½” hose clamps. 25. Fill and bleed cooling system. 26. Install extended brake line. 27. Fill and bleed hydraulic brake system. 28. Install extended throttle cable and adjust per instructions in factory service manual. 29. Install new shift lever bracket with ¼-20 screws provided (x3). 30. Reinstall shift lever. 31. Install extended shifting rod. Adjust per instructions in factory service manual. 32. Reconnect the battery. 33. Start ATV, check for leaks, operation of throttle cable and electrical system, tighten clamps and fittings and correct leaks and electrical problems as required. 34. Measure and cut plastic floor pan previously removed from ATV so that it fits snugly against the front of the frame extension. 35. Install cut plastic floor pan using either rivets or self-tapping screws provided. 36. Install new rear driver and passenger side floor pan using ¼”-20 screws and 3/16” rivets provided. 37. Reinstall plastic covers under the rear seats.

Download Yamaha Rhino Stretch Kit Beaver Pro PDF Owner’s Manual

Post from: Free Download Automotive PDF Manual

Yamaha Rhino Stretch Kit Beaver Pro PDF Owner’s Manual

Tools Needed :
Ratchet with 10mm socket
Ratchet with 7/16” socket
1/8” Allen Wrench

Positioning of Panels
1. First remove the two cargo hooks from the inside of the bed near the tailgate. For Teryx you must also remove the two cargo hooks near the bulkhead and the top screw from near the bulkhead. This will expose 3 holes in the Teryx near the bulkhead. For Rhino remove the bolts near the bed tilt latch. Retain the bolts and hardware as these will be used to install the cover.
2. Next, clean the top of the bulkhead with rubbing alcohol and dry with a lint free cloth. Apply the supplied weather strip to the top of the bulkhead. This will make up any difference in height between the bulkhead and bed sides and ensure a good seal.
3. Use the factory hardware from step 1 to install the lock brackets in place of the tailgate side cargo hooks as shown in Figure 1. The brackets must be positioned with the hole toward the top of the bed and opening of the V in the bracket facing the cab of the UTV as shown in Figure 1.
4. Install the slotted mounting brackets on the underside of the stationary panel as shown in Figure 2 using the ¼” carriage bolts, nuts, and washers provided. Nuts and washers must be installed towards the inside of the cover for access. FOR TERYX it is important to note that the adjustment slots Then place the stationary panel on the front of the bed. Tighten the nuts only slightly to allow for final adjustment of bracket.
5. Use the factory hardware from step one to mount the slotted brackets to the inside bed wall. Do not tighten brackets until entire cover is centered on the vehicle in the desired position.
6. To attach the tailgate panel, hold the panel with hinges facing down, and perpendicular to the stationary panel. Align the hinges of the tailgate panel with those of the stationary panel, and slide the tailgate panel into position. (Figure 3) Make sure to align the roll pin of the male hinge with the “slot” of the female half of the hinge.
7. Once the hinges are fully mated together, hold the lock in the “open” position, and close the panel slowly. Adjust cover front to back so that it overlaps the tailgate evenly.
8. Once the cover is centered on the bed and overlaps the tailgate evenly, open the cover and have someone press down on the stationary panel to compress the weather strip as you tighten the slotted mounting brackets from inside the bed.

Attaching Gas Springs
1. Attach one end of each of the gas springs to the ball stud located on the ball stud arm by pushing the open end of the gas spring
onto the ball stud. (Figure 4).
2. The unattached end of the spring has a quick release cap that permits easy installation and removal. Attach the spring to the ball
stud bracket on the underside of the panel by pushing the open end of the gas spring onto the ball stud.
3. To remove the gas springs, open the key as shown in Figures 5-6 and pull the spring from the ball stud. On the other end of the
spring, pry up gently on the metal spring clip with a small, flat object (screwdriver or key) while pulling the gas spring from the
ball stud.

Lock Rod Adjustment
1. Locking rod lengths can be adjusted by using an allen wrench to loosen the set-screw on the rod linkages.
2. Adjust the rod lengths so that the tip of the lock rods clear the lock brackets when the handle is in the “open” position.
3. Rod guide bracket location can be adjusted using a 7/16” socket. Adjust the rod guide bracket so that the rod will pass through the lock brackets when the cover is in the closed position. It may be necessary to lightly grease the rod ends and grommets for further ease of operation.
4. Be sure that all weather strip is compressed while you adjust the rods to the proper height.
5. When the rods are in the proper position, tighten the nuts to 10 ft.-lbs on the rod guide bracket to secure rod placement.

Download Yamaha Rhino & Kawasaki Teryx Cover PDF Owners Manual

Post from: Free Download Automotive PDF Manual

Yamaha Rhino & Kawasaki Teryx Cover PDF Owners Manual

Be careful to not rip or otherwise damage the clutch cover gasket. (If in doubt as to the status of the gasket, throw it away and use a new one) Once the cover is off, you will see 4 bolts on the clutch hub. Remove these 4 bolts and pull off the outer pressure plate. Now you can remove the 2 old friction plates and the 1 steel plate (If the steel plate is warped or blue, replace it too). Also, be sure to remove the rubber o-rings from the inner clutch hub as they are not needed in the racing clutch. Apply some fresh transmission oil to the new friction plates, (both sides) then place one new friction plate in the clutch, then the steel plate, then the other friction plate. Replace the outer pressure plate and, with the new springs, replace the 4 bolts.

Be very careful in tightening these bolts as the aluminum bosses they thread into are very soft and stripping is very likely. If in doubt as to the quality of the threads, have them repaired using “HELI-COILS”. Replace the drain oil bolt, (preferably with one of our Magnetic Drain Plugs, Part No. 15-4037) Replace the cover (using a new gasket, if yours was damaged) tighten all the cover bolts evenly and in a criss-cross pattern. Replace the kick starter, and refill the transmission with 600cc of good oil, like Castrol 20/50 GTX To adjust the new clutch, remove the ignition cover on the left side, (If your screw heads are buggerd, we have a nice Allen Bolt Kit that replaces every bolt on both engine covers for only $12.95 Part No. 50-3000). You will notice the clutch release mechanism to the rear of the ignition rotor. Just above the release mechanism is the clutch cable adjuster.

Loosen this adjuster all the way. Now, loosen the 10mm nut in the center of the clutch release mechanism, and back out the center screw a couple of turns. Now screw it back in paying close attention to the feel of it coming into contact with the clutch push rod inside the engine. Turn it in a little to take all play out of the system. The object here is to take all play out of the system with out having any pressure on the clutch push rod in the engine. Once you feel you are at that point, back out the screw about a quarter turn and lock down the 10mm nut that surrounds the screw.

If you can, hold the screw with the screwdriver and tighten the nut with a box wrench so you will be sure the adjustment has not changed by tightening the 10mm nut. You should now have a little play in the system. If not, you WILL burn-up the clutch right away! Now you can adjust the lever play with the cable adjuster. 3/8 to 1/2 inch is what you are looking for at the lever tip. Replace the ignition cover and the fairing and you are ready to go!

Download Yamaha YSR-50 Racing Clutch Kit PDF Installation Instruction

Post from: Free Download Automotive PDF Manual

Yamaha YSR-50 Racing Clutch Kit PDF Installation Instruction

What does make this motorcycle is the straight-forward thinking behind it. Unfortunately, first impressions are usually lasting impressions, and one look at the new and far out styling carried by the Seca Turbo and its computerized check panel leaves one with the initial impression of, “Boy, there must be a lot of complicated hardware lurking behind those body panels.” This is a natural assumption in as much as the
Yamaha Seca Turbo follows closely on the heels of a very much similarly-appearing turbo entry from Japan—Honda’s very complex “statement” of engi-Honda CX500 Turbo. But neering excellence, the like my daddy always says, “don’t assume nothing!” Yamaha 650 Seca Turbo is as simple as the The Honda CX500 Turbo is complex.

Once the “Megaforce” appearing body panels are removed (which only takes about two minutes for the main body section removal, and another five minutes to remove the engine shroud panels) what XJ650 Eurobike you have appears to be Yamaha’s with a bank of four very conventional carburetors. Fact is, except for the exposed fuel tank (the real one which looks like it belongs on a desert racer Seca 650 rather than on a sleek turbobike) the appears to be your ordinary, garden-variety Turbo type mid-displacement motorcycle that is powered by a very conventional, normally-aspirated engine. Seca And in a sense, it is. Because when the Turbo is ridden in a conventional manner, it performs exactly the way a normally-aspirated motorcycle would perform.

And when called upon to perform like a turbocharged engine, it does because it is. The “best of both worlds” is usually clouded with a gray area called “compromise.” In the world of turbocharging, this gray area is referred to as “turbo lag.” This much talked about turbo lag is a condition that occurs, in varying degrees, in all turbocharged engines. The severity of turbo lag is relative to numerous factors, from engine design to properly matching the turbocharger to the engine’s size and number of cylinders. Yamaha has done this—and more—and executed it with simplistic brilliance. XJ650LJ Seca Turbo is based on the The XJ650 Eurobike, an existing shaft-driven…

Download Yamaha Seca 650 Turbo PDF Manual Review

Post from: Free Download Automotive PDF Manual

Yamaha Seca 650 Turbo PDF Manual Review

If there is a question about a service procedure, it is imperative that you contact a Yamaha dealer for service information changes that apply to this model. This policy aims to provide clients with the most satisfying of his motorcycle and meet federal environmental objectives. This guide is prepared by the Yamaha Motor Company primarily for use by Yamaha dealers and their qualified mechanics. It is not possible for all knowledge of a mechanic in a manual, it is assumed that everyone who uses this book to perform maintenance and repairs on engines Yamaha has a basic knowledge of the mechanical ideas and the procedures of motorcycle repair .

Yamaha Motor Company, Ltd continuously strives to improve all its models. Changes and major changes in the specifications or procedures will be sent to all authorized Yamaha dealers and will appear in future editions of this manual as applicable.

Download Yamaha XVS650AK Service PDF Manual

Post from: Free Download Automotive PDF Manual

Yamaha XVS650AK Service PDF Manual

This guide is intended as a convenient and easy to read guide to the engineer. Detailed explanations of all installation, removal, disassembly, assembly, repair and inspection procedures set out in individual steps in sequential order.

1. The handbook is divided into chapters. An abbreviation and symbol in the upper right corner of each page indicates the current chapter. Refer to “Character”.
2. Each chapter is divided into sections. This section title is shown at the top of every page, with the exception of Chapter 3 ( “Periodic checks and adjustments), where sub-section title (s) AP-pears.
3. Sub-section titles appear in smaller print than the section title.
4. To identify parts and clarify procedure steps have exploded diagrams at the beginning of each removal and disassembly section.
5. Numbers are listed in order of jobs in the volume chart. A circled number indicates disassembly step.
6. Signs indicate parts to be broken, or replaced. Refer to “Character”.
7. A working Chart instructions accompanied exploded diagram, providing the order of jobs, names of parts, notes in jobs, etc.
8. Jobs requiring more information (such as special tools and technical data) are described consistently.

Download Yamaha YZF-R6S/YZF-R6SC Supplementary Service PDF Manual

Post from: Free Download Automotive PDF Manual

Yamaha YZF-R6S/YZF-R6SC Supplementary Service PDF Manual