FITTING.
The Volkswagen brake kits 4- or 5- stud, can be fitted to all VW Beetle which were either fitted as standard with steering knuckles for disc brakes or have been convertd at a later date. NOTE: Dia. of the stub axle for the inner bearing – 29 mm. ’65-’67 models with could have 27 mm.

To mount the 4 Pot brake system it is necessary to send the stub axles to KERSCHER for reworking. Remove the front brake discs, wheel bearings and splash gaurds. Mount the KERSCHER discs and wheel bearings.

Fit the spacers supplied (2 Pot system only) between the steering knuckle and the brake caliper and fix firmly using the M10x1.5×30 bolts and spring washers supplied (60 Nm torque).

Tools & Spare-part required:
2 Brake discs internally ventilated (PCD 130/4, 130/5, 100/4) either cross drilled or slotted.

2 Calipers (2 Pot)
1 Set of brake pads
2 Sets of wheel bearings
4 Screws M10x1.5×30/10.9
4 Spring washers M10x18
4 Spacers M10x20x4 mm
1 Accessory kit
2 Grease caps (only 4/100 )

May also be fitted:
1 Main cylinder (BZ 52017 KER)

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VW Beetle Disc Brake Kit Front Axle Fitting PDF Instructions

Label and disconnect all electrical wiring, control cables, coolant hoses and vacuum hoses from engine/transaxle assembly. Disconnect throttle, cruise and kickdown linkage (if equipped). Remove air duct from intake manifold. Disconnect drive axles from transaxle. See AXLE SHAFTS – FRONT article in DRIVE AXLES. Disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold. Attach Engine Sling (2024A). See Fig. 3 . Disconnect left rear transaxle mount and right rear engine mount. Disconnect front engine mount. Release engine carrier. It may be necessary to pry spacer bracket from rubber bushings. Raise engine and transaxle out of vehicle.

To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW self-locking nuts and coolant. Ensure volkswagen engine mounts are installed to original location. Align all engine supports with mount bushings before tightening mount bolts. Tighten bolts to specification. INTAKE & EXHAUST MANIFOLD. Remove upper engine cover. Remove wire guide. Remove right rear support between upper intake manifold and cylinder head. Remove fuel line bracket, flame trap coil and circlip. Remove wire brackets. Remove valve cover and gasket. Remove camshaft position sensor, “O” ring and spacer ring. Remove bracket for 42-pin connector and water pump. Remove ignition coil, chain tensioner and seal. Remove camshaft sprocket cover. Remove cylinder head bolts in reverse order of installation. See Fig. 6 . Replace cylinder head bolts
after loosening or removing.

Install 8-mm bolt in belt tensioner hole and remove accessory drive belt. See Fig. 2 . Remove vibration damper. Loosen inner section of Oil Seal Extractor (3203) about 3 turns (4 mm) and lock in position with knurled screw. Turn inner section of oil seal extractor until seal is removed. Installation. Place guide Sleeve (3266/1) on crankshaft. Push oil seal over guide sleeve. Using Oil Seal Installer (3266) and vibration damper bolt, press oil seal in completely. See Fig. 7 . Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

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Volkswagen Corrado SLC 1994 2.8L VR6 Cylinder Engine Overhaul PDF Manual

C3854, Replacement interval 15.000 km/10,000 miles or after 12 months. Assembly is the reverse order of operation
1. Tools needed are a hex head screwdriver. Depress the two clips on the cover plate in the middle of the dash and remove.
2. Remove the screws in the middle and on the passenger side of dash. Take out the passenger side of the dash plate. Unplug the dash light.
3. Remove the six screws in the filter cover. Lift out the filter and frame by depressing tab at front left corner.
4. Remove the filter from the frame and replace with a clean cabin air filter. Reinsert filter and frame, and snap into place. Replace passenger side of dash and plug in dash light. Push dash cover plate into place.

P3852, Replacement interval 15.000 km/10,000 miles or after 12 months. Assembly is the reverse order of operation
1. Tools needed are a Phillips screwdriver. Open the hood. Remove weather stripping form the passenger side. Remove four screws from the cabin filter cover.
2. Remove cover by pulling towards front of vehicle.
3. Remove filter and top filter housing plate by depressing the two tabs on the top housing plate. Lift filter and pull out. Remove used filter from top housing plate and replace with clean cabin filter.
4. Make sure to line up the four notches on the top side of the filter with the ribs on the top housing plate. Replace filter and top housing plate by sliding into place and pushing down until the two tabs click into place. Reattach cover.

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Highlights
Standard equipped ESP
Standard six-speaker premium CD radio with MP3 format capability
Auxiliary jacks for personal device (e.g., iPod) connectivity and Sirius® Satellite
Radio with three-month complimentary subscription
2.5L, in-line, five-cylinder gasoline engine
Standard Cold Weather package

Comfort, Convenience, Infotainment Features For four-season fun, the New Beetle convertible features a three-layer cloth top with a heated glass rear window. An extra window switch on convertible models allows the driver to lower and raise all of the side windows simultaneously. The modern top helps keep road noise out in the “up” or closed position. Lowering the top is easy, and it fits neatly behind the rear seat in original Beetle fashion. The soft-top also includes a semi-automatic power roof and a wind blocker as options.

Both models come standard with an ample host of appointments, including V-Tex leatherette seat trim; leather brake handle and shifter knob; heated front seats; chrome accents throughout; telescoping three-spoke padded steering wheel; Easy Entry System front seats for rear passenger entry; and one-touch up/down automatic windows (driver and passenger) with pinch protection. Audiophiles will find the new Beetle offerings to their liking as well, with a standard -six speaker premium CD radio with MP3 format capability on the convertible and six-speaker system on the hardtop. Both carry auxiliary jacks for personal device (e.g., iPod) connectivity and Sirius® Satellite Radio with three-month complimentary subscription.

Engine and Transmission The 2009 New Beetle and New Beetle convertibles come equipped with Volkswagen’s rock-solid and advanced 2.5L, in-line, five-cylinder gasoline engine. The 2.5L engine delivers 150 horsepower at 5000 rpm and 170 lbs.-ft. of torque at 3750 rpm. With four valves per cylinder, aluminum alloy cross flow heads and double overhead camshafts, the engine is strong, quiet, and efficient. Hydraulic lifters are maintenance-free. Digital electronic ignition and Motronic sequential multi-point fuel injection enable the engine to operate on regular unleaded gasoline. Power is delivered to the front wheels with two types of transmissions. A five-speed manual transmission operates smoothly with a hydraulic clutch. An available six-speed transmission with Tiptronic® allows for both automatic and driver-selected gear changes using the gear selector. The convertible is automatic only. The 2009 New Beetle convertible with automatic transmission achieves an EPA-estimated fuel efficiency of up to 29 mpg on the highway and 20 mpg in city driving.

With a manual transmission, the New Beetle EPA estimates are 28 mpg highway and 20 in the city — automatic EPA estimates are 29 mpg highway and 20 in the city. Chassis and Suspension Independent front McPherson struts, a torsion beam rear axle and front and rear stabilizer bars combine for a comfortable ride with solid cornering stability. Power-assisted rack and pinion steering with a 15.6:1 steering ratio ensures the responsiveness expected of an authentic German-tuned offering and four-wheel disc brakes (288- x 25-mm vented front, 232- x 9-mm solid rear) delivers all the stopping power needed.

State-of-the-art chassis controls are abundant on the New Beetle and New Beetle convertible to ensure outstanding vehicle dynamics. The front-drive compacts are standard equipped with the latest three-channel version Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) and advanced Electronic Stabilization Program (ESP) with brake assist and traction control including Anti-Slip Regulation. A Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) is also standard as well.

Exterior The New Beetle convertible is available in Black, Candy White, Gecko Green, Salsa Red, Harvest Moon, Sunflower Yellow and Heaven Blue Metallic. The hardtop expands the color palette to include Platinum Gray and Reflex Silver. Sixteen-inch alloy “Mali”-designed wheels are standard on all New Beetle offerings, and the convertible offers 17-inch alloy “Versus” wheels as an option. Active and Passive Safety Like all Volkswagens, the New Beetle and New Beetle convertible include the Prevent and Preserve Safety System, consisting of more than 45 safety features. As standard equipment, the New Beetle and New Beetle convertible include — but are not limited to — dual front airbags; dual front side head/thorax airbags; emergency locking retractors in all seating positions; front safety belts with pretensioners and load limiters; and three-point safety belts in all five seating positions (two front, three rear) with emergency locking retractors. The New Beetle convertible also includes an Active Rollover Support™ system that “pops up” two spring-loaded aluminum posts in 0.25 seconds from behind the rear seat headrests.

The New Beetle and New Beetle convertible, like all 2009 Volkswagens, come standard equipped with the Electronic Stabilization Program (ESP). This is important because the National Highway and Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has reported that ESC results in 35 percent fewer single-vehicle crashes and 30 percent fewer single-vehicle fatalities in passenger cars. Volkswagen is one of the only original equipment manufacturers to provide an electronic stability control system on its entire product line as standard equipment — ahead of the NHTSA deadline requiring vehicles in the 2012 model year to include stability control systems. ESP compares the driver’s intended course with the vehicle’s actual direction; if ESP detects a discrepancy, ESP automatically brakes individual front or rear wheels and/or reduces engine power as needed in certain driving circumstances to help maintain directional control.

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New Volkswagen Beetle 2009 Convertible PDF Reference Manual

Step 1: Removing the front glass lens from the headlight. Remove the 4 metal clips securing the glass to the headlight backing using a flat screwdriver. Preheat the oven to 100 degrees Celsius. Once ready, pop the first headlight into the oven (yes the oven) for around 60 – 90 seconds. This is totally safe and will cause the sealant to soften. Using a butter knife pry the glass away from the plastic backing. It should pull apart relatively easily.

Step 2: Prepping for paint. Using masking tape, mask off the edges you want the paint to go. You only want to be painting the rough chrome parts; the smooth parts reflect the light and should be left alone. Take note: The chrome reflective paint peels off rather easily so work cautiously. To combat the tape pulling off the chrome paint, stick the tape to your shirt a few times to remove most of the stickiness. This is a highly important step, the tape should barely stick.

Step 3: Paint. Spray some black high heat paint into a cup with a tinfoil surround. Using the big & small paintbrushes give the light a few coats of paint until nice and even. Take note: We noticed when painting close to the masking tape that the paint tended to get absorbed into the tape and run up into areas of the light we didn’t want painted. It was decided a vinyl type tape could possibly be a better option in preventing this. This wasn’t really an issue – refer to step 4.

Step 4: Remove tape & cleanup edges. Take care when removing the tape. Touchup any parts you might have missed. Using an ear bud dipped in nail polish remover clean up any bad edges. Take note: The nail polish remover works a treat but if kept on the surface too long it will eat into that precious chrome paint, therefore use as little as possible and clean it up shortly after with a soft damp cloth or kitchen paper.

Step 5: Refitting the glass. Re-silicone each light unit, fit glass and refit the metal clips.

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Volkswagen Golf III Headlight Modification PDF Installation Manual

Parts needed*:
* Two Bosch/Tyco relays (part #0332209150)
* Two 5-pin, pre-wired relay sockets for the above relays
* Two 9003/H4 pre-wired headlight sockets (use hi-heat versions if upgrading the lamps)
* Regular male-end disconnects, 14 gauge
* Three different colors of 14 gauge insulated wire (yellow, white and brown will match the OEM wiring)
* Two in-line ATO/ATC fuse holders (10 or 12 gauge)
* Two 20- or 30-amp fuses (some fuse holders come with the fuses)
* Three ring-style terminals, 10-12 gauge
* Heat shrink tubing of varying sizes
* Black plastic wire loom tubing (optional)
* Electrical tape
* Mounting hardware of your choice (in this how-to, an L- shaped bracket is made from sheet metal)
* Small black zip ties

*This parts list is for the minimum amount of parts needed. If your Cabriolet has the dual-round headlight setup, three or four relays and related parts can be used, if desired (every relay requires an in-line fuse). Relay sockets are not required, but they will give your engine bay a cleaner, more OEM look; if not using sockets, you’ll need insulated female-end disconnects.

NOTES:
1) Wire lengths are not given in this how-to because the lengths will vary depending on where you locate the relays. Always measure prior to cutting! Wire colors are also not given because color preference varies from person to person; therefore, the pictures of wires in this guide are for reference only.
2) The stock wiring is 16 gauge. If you are using stock sealed-beam lamps, 16 gauge wire will suffice; however, it is advised that you upgrade the wiring to 14 or 12 gauge, especially if you plan to upgrade to higher-powered headlights. Wiring diagrams can be found on pages 6 & 7. When stripping wire, strip just enough insulation off of the wires for splicing and/or inserting into disconnects and such.
3) These relays have two variations; know which relays you have before beginning! One relay uses two 87 terminals; the other relay uses one 87 terminal and one 87a terminal. Relays with two 87 terminals are convenient because one terminal can be used to power the driver’s side headlight and the other to power the passenger side headlight. Look at the bottom of your relays: If one or both of your relays have terminal 87a, that terminal cannot be used; instead, the two headlight socket power wires will need to be spliced into the one regular 87 terminal wire and the
end of the 87a terminal wire (if using pre-wired sockets) will need to be taped. The steps in this guide use two regular 87 terminals; however, the diagrams on pages 6 & 7 show both types of relays and how to wire them.

Before beginning this procedure, it’s a good idea to take a voltage reading at the
headlights (and photograph their brightness for a before-and-after comparison):
* Pop the hood, turn the engine on and take a voltage reading at the battery.
* Flip the headlight switch on and take another voltage reading at the battery (see voltage drop?).
* Keep the negative DVOM lead connected to the battery’s negative post and touch the positive DVOM lead to the lo-beam (yellow/black wire) headlight terminal. Record the reading (take a picture of the lights, if desired) and turn the lights, engine, and DVOM off.

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Volkswagen Cabriolet DIY Relaying Headlights PDF Installation Instructions

This Kit Incudes the Following:
1 pair of ST-40 4-Piston Calipers
1 set of high performance brake pads (Not suitable for track use)
1 pair of 328mm X 28mm AeroRotors
1 pair of caliper adapter brackets, with stainless steel mounting studs and hardware pre-installed.
1 pair of stainless steel covered Teflon brake lines.
- 1 pair of “C” clips for brake line brackets (used for VW kits only)
- 1 pair of Banjo Bolts
- 2 pair of copper washers
- 1 pair of rubber end caps
- 2 High temperature Ty-Wraps

Caliper, Hat and Bracket Finish Disclaimer
Many wheel-cleaning solutions contain strong acids that may damage the finish on any caliper and or aluminum anodized finish, especially the plating on the hardware. Check for adverse effects by trying a small amount of the cleaner in question on an inconspicuous area. Avoid
over spraying, and rinse the cleaning solution off as quickly as possible. STOPTECH will not be held liable for damage to caliper, hat or bracket finish due to corrosive chemical exposure.

Step 1
Jack up the car.
Apply Parking Brake and properly block rear wheels.
Remove plastic wheel nut covers using the factory supplied tool.
Brake loose the lug nuts on both front wheels with a 17mm socket (for stock wheels) before jacking up the vehicle and secure on a pair of jack stands. Or jack one side only using a single jack stand of suitable load rating.

Step 2
Remove Wheels
After securing the vehicle at a convenient height, remove the front wheels.

Step 3
Remove Inner Brake Line Connection
WARNING – Brake line fluid will damage most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled brake fluid from any painted surfaces.
Place a drip tray or several rags directly below the inboard brake line connection. If the area around the connection is dirty, clean with brake cleaner or appropriate cleaning agent
Note- Be sure the cap is securely installed on the master cylinder. If the cap is loose or removed, it is likely more fluid will drip.
Using an 11mm wrench, loosen and remove the hard line fitting from the stock brake line.
Note- Brake fluid will drip onto your hands during this operation. Latex gloves may be preferred.
Be aware that brake fluid will soak through fabric or leather gloves and transfer to everything touched after that. Quickly place one of the rubber
caps over the end of the hard line. This should effectively control fluid loss for the duration of the installation.

Step 4
Remove Stock Calipers
On left side only of the TT is a brake pad wear sensor.
Separate the male end of the brake pad wear sensor connector (wires attached to the brake pad) from the female connector (wires attached to the chassis side).
Use a small blade type screwdriver in the chassis side of the connector to release the 2 parts.
Disconnect brake line from strut as shown: If not done so already, please read Step 12 on page 15. The end of the plug attached to the brake pads on the left side of the vehicle will need to be modified to prevent the “Brake Warning” light from coming on. You may want to make this modification at this point as the rotor assembly will not be in the way. – Loosen the stock caliper mounting bolts with a 18mm wrench or socket. Remove the caliper with stock line attached. Be aware there may be some leakage from the open end of the brake line, but it should remain fairly dry unless the pads/pistons on the caliper are retracted.

Step 5
Remove the Stock Rotor
Remove the Phillips head screw holding the rotor.
Note- Rust and corrosion may make this screw difficult to remove. Be careful not to strip the screw head. If screw does not easily come loose, try a penetrating thread lubricant to loosen the threads. If bolt is not easily removed, consult a professional mechanic of brake technician for assistance.
Be sure to prevent rotor from dropping as bolt is removed.
In some cases the rotor may be rusted or corroded into place. Again, a penetrating type oil may help loosen the rotor. In severe cases it may be necessary to tap the rotor off with a non-marring hammer or mallet.

Step 6
Install Caliper Bracket
Install the caliper adapter bracket to the upright on the stock caliper mounting lugs using the stock mounting bolts. The pre-installed studs face forward, and the bracket mounts on the inboard side of the caliper mounting lugs on the upright. The round boss goes under the bolt head.
Torque the bolts to 90 lb-ft. The factory bolts have a locking feature built into the retained washer. DO NOT use any thread locker such as Loctite™.
Again, it may be necessary to turn the wheels in order for the wrench handle to clear the wheel well.

Step 7
Install AeroRotor Assembly
Non-plated rotors MUST be washed with soap and water prior to installation.
Install the pre-assembled AeroRotor and aluminum hat assembly onto the spindle using the stock Phillips head screw.
Be sure the rotor assemblies are on the correct side of the car. Reversing the rotors will severely decrease the cooling capacity of the system. The vanes inside the rotor should lean to the rear of the car on the top-side of the rotor. See green Break-In Procedure Sheet to determine rotor direction. See next page for proper orientation.
Rotate the rotor assembly and check that the backing plate (dust shield) is not touching the rotor.
If there is interference, simply bend the plate out of the way where there is interference.

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Installation
1) To begin, first disconnect battery.
2) Remove air box and associated inlet pieces
3) Remove upper intake manifold as described in Robert Bentley Manual. Remove the spark plug leads and various shrouds. Removing the 6mm allen head bolts along the front of manifold where the 2 halves join. Remove the 6mm allen head bolts which attach the manifold brackets to the head. Remove throttle cable from throttle body. Unplug the various sensors and vacuum hoses. The upper manifold should now be free, remove it from car. *NOTE * with the intake manifold off, cover the lower half of the manifold so that nothing can fall into engine making the installation of turbo useless and the need for a rebuild a possibility.
4) You can now replace the fuel injectors. Be careful as the fuel system is pressurized and will spray (safety glasses and rags are definitely recommended). The injector o-rings must be lubricated before installation.
5) Next is the oil feed line. While the intake manifold is off, look straight down to the top of the oil filter housing. There are three sensors, remove the one closest to the transmission; install brass “run tee” (be sure to use thread sealer on threads of tee) the sensor then screws into top of tee. The 1/8 NPT to –4 adapter threads into side of tee (more sealer on end of adapter which threads into tee) the 90 deg swivel goes on next with the oil line threading onto swivel pointing up towards top of engine. Run oil line in a logical path so that it does not interfere with manifold (when reassembled). Keep open end of oil line clean and free of debris, tape would be a good thing. Note: it may be easier to remove the oil filter housing altogether this is done by first draining housing and then removing the three bolts which attach it to the block. Once removed, it is a simple procedure to install run tee etc. Be sure that when you reinstall the ‘0-ring’ (the figure 8 looking seal) is in good condition or it will leak.
6) Soak all nuts/bolts of exhaust with WD-40 or something similar. Crawl under car and undo down pipe from cat. Remove down pipe from manifold. Remove heat shields and undo manifolds from head. Be sure that O2 sensor is disconnected before you remove down pipe.
7) Install turbo manifold (if gaskets are shot …replace). Cut/install heat shield for top of manifold so that it does not interfere with turbo. Install studs into manifold, turbo gasket, and turbo. Loosen the bolts around compressor/exhaust housings so that center housing can be rotated. Install _ NPT to –4 90deg. adapter to oil inlet on turbo. You want to rotate center housing so that the oil feed is straight up. The bolts on the exhaust housing side can be tightened. Tighten oil line to adapter on turbo.

Drain oil from pan. Remove bolts holding pan to engine (on the transmission there is a cover to remove before you can remove bolts). Locate where to drill hole in pan (approx. centered on 2 hole directly above oil drain, 1” down from top). Drill hole in pan, weld bung onto pan. Reinstall oil pan; make sure that the gasket is good (some sealer (silicone like substance) can be used sparingly around gasket/pan). Install brass 90 deg. onto pan (use thread sealer), install _” NPT-5/8” with barbed end (use thread sealer), install 5/8 hose onto barbed adapter (use lubrication…. it goes on a lot easier). Install oil drain flange/gasket onto turbo (this uses the imperial bolts supplied). Install –10 fitting onto end of oil drain hose and attach to oil drain flange.
9) Reinstall intake manifold, use new gaskets if warranted. Install silicone inlet piece (rotate compressor housing to facilitate ease of installation). Tighten bolts on compressor housing.
10) Install flex pipe onto down pipe using t-bolt clamp 4043. Install down pipe onto turbo. Install stainless flange with tube onto flex pipe, install waste gate onto manifold and attach onto flange/flex (use gaskets) tighten all clamps/bolts. Attach down pipe to cat, install O2 sensor.
11) If the car is equipped with AC, gently bend lines so that when the turbo inlet silicone is installed, the lines won’t rub. Install inlet pieces and attach inlet tube to back of block. Remove MAF element from housing and install into new aluminum housing. Install air filter to new MAF and install into car.
12) Install molded hose from valve cover to inlet, install Bosch blow off valve to throttle body silicone, use 1” hose to attach to inlet piece. OBD-1 cars need to install hose between compressor housing and idle speed controller.
13) Replace vacuum hose which runs between intake manifold and EVAP Canistr Purge Regulator Valve with silicone hose, install 1 vacuum tee near throttle body run line to waste gate. Run hose towards the passenger side of car install the other tee and run 3/16” vacuum hose to blow off valve. The 1-way check valve is placed before the EVAP solenoid so that vacuum opens the check valve and boost closes the valve.
14) Locate the computer in rain tray: remove the computer from car, remove from bracket and open case. Take note what the orientation of the chip is, carefully remove factory chip from socket on board and replace with chip supplied (usually found taped to MAF housing). Reinstall computer into car.
15) Check all clamps, bolts and don’t forget to refill the oil! Reinstall battery. Turn key to on, but do not start. The throttle body needs to recalibrate, it will buzz for approx. 20 seconds.
16) Start the car.

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