The Light Truck Frame Project Team was established to address mass reduction initiatives associated with light truck frames and includes representatives from DaimlerChrysler, Ford, General Motors, frame manufacturers, and the producers of frame component steels. Reducing the steel thickness of the components in a frame would reduce the mass of a frame. However, doing so may not satisfy all of the frame stiffness requirements. Judicious use of thinner, higher strength steel enables designers to achieve a degree of mass reduction and satisfy many of the engineering and performance criteria. If significant corrosion occurs, one critical performance parameter that could suffer as material thickness decreases is structural strength. Given the same corrosion rate, a thinner steel component will reach the critical thickness at which structural failure occurs sooner than a thicker component. Therefore, if steel thickness is reduced to decrease mass, then additional measures may have to be taken to control corrosion in order to maintain the same structural performance of the frame over time.

Bare steel, in the presence of oxygen and moisture, corrodes. To mitigate corrosion, frame engineers select design characteristics that prevent poultices and water entrapment. General Motors Corporation Trailer Test. Panels, with the seven coatings, are mounted directly behind the wheels on a trailer. The panels are identical to those described above for the J2334 test. The trailer and panels are pulled over gravel roads (stone chipping) and through a salt splash facility (salt application). The panels are also exposed, in a booth, to high temperature/high humidity soaks. The stone chipping severity in the test is roughly representative of average customer usage in a rural environment. The test continues for ten cycles. Each cycle takes 24 hours to complete and has three phases:

• an eight hour road test plus ambient temperature soak,
• an eight hour booth soak and
• an eight hour ambient temperature soak/dry off.

ACT Laboratories, Inc. is conducting the SAE J2334 and SAE J2334 Modified tests. General Motors is conducting the Trailer Test at its Milford, MI Proving Grounds. It is anticipated the coated case corrosion testing will be completed early in 2000. Following analysis by the Light Truck Frame Project Team, the results will be issued as a revision to this publication.

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B. Vehicle and Parts Preparation
1. Completely read instructions and familiarize yourself with the installation before beginning.
2. Open hood.
3. Apply vehicle protection to prevent damage to painted surfaces.
4. Remove negative battery cable from terminal.
5. Prior to installation, make sure all parts of the Cold Air Intake are clean and free of debris.
i. Blow out the inside of the tube and air box with compressed air.

C. Remove Factory Components
Operations Performed in the Engine Compartment
1. Remove engine cover. (Fig. C1)
i. Use a 10mm socket and ratchet assembly to remove (2) 10mm nuts.
ii. Lift front of cover off studs and pull forward to disengage rear mounts.
2. Disconnect breather hose from factory air filter assembly. (Fig. C2)
3. Disconnect the vacuum hose from rear of air box. (Fig. C3)
4. Loosen the two factory hose clamps with a 10mm socket and ratchet assembly. (Fig. C4)
5. Remove the two 12mm bolts. (Fig. C4)
6. Disconnect MAF sensor connector. (Fig. C5)
i. Push clip to release connector.
7. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter lid by unscrewing the (2) Phillips head screws. (Fig. C5)
i. Do not touch the internal sensor surfaces.
ii. Protect the sensor from damage.
8. Disengage the two wire harness clamps from air box. (Fig. C6)
9. Disconnect the air filter inlet hose and remove the air filter housing assembly.
10. Remove intake air tube from inner fender
i. Remove two 12mm bolts. (Fig. C7)
11. Remove the factory rubber grommets and steel sleeves from the air filter assembly as shown. (Fig. C8)

D. Install TRD Air Intake
1. Grasp the supplied trim seal and press firmly onto the TRD air filter housing inlet. (Fig. D1)
i. Use entire length of trim seal to surround air filter housing inlet.
2. Insert rubber grommets and sleeves removed in Step C11 into TRD air filter housing as shown. (Fig. D2)
i. Insert rubber grommets first, then push sleeves into place.
3. Remove 12mm bolt that secures the factory AC line mounting bracket. (Fig. D3)
4. Install the supplied 8mm rubber mount into the threaded hole left open from the previous step.
i. Hand-tighten rubber mount. (Fig. D4)
5. Install TRD air filter housing.
i. Align TRD housing so factory rubber grommets are directly over the mounting holes in the inner fender well, and the top 8mm thread side of the rubber mount protrudes through TRD housing. (Fig. D5)
ii. Install the 12mm bolts removed in Step. C5 through the rubber grommets in the housing. (Fig. D6)
iii. Install the supplied 8mm flat washer and 8mm nut onto the 8mm threads of the rubber mount as shown. (Fig. D6)
iv. Tighten bolts to 60 in. lbf. + 5 in. lbf. (6.7 Nm + 0.6 Nm).
v. Tighten nut to 60 in. lbf. + 5 in. lbf. (6.7 Nm + 0.6 Nm).
6. Install the air filter adapter. (Fig. D7)
i. Insert hose end side of air filter adapter through the air filter housing from the inside as shown. (Fig. D7)
ii. Use a 4mm Allen Wrench and 3 supplied Button-Head screws to secure adapter to housing. (Fig. D7)
iii. Torque screws to 20 in. lbf. + 3 in. lbf. (2.3 Nm + 0.3 Nm (Fig. D7)
7. Use a 4mm 12-point socket to remove the stud in the factory air filter housing as shown. (Fig. D8)
8. Install the stud removed in the previous step into the threaded insert in the TRD intake tube. (Fig. D9)
i. Torque stud to 35 in. lbf. + 5 in. lbf (4.0 Nm + 0.5 Nm
9. Install supplied hose barb fitting into TRD intake tube as shown. (Fig. D10)
i. Apply teflon pipe sealant or teflon tape to hose barb fitting threads.
ii. Use a 7/16” wrench to install hose barb fitting. (Fig. D10)
Caution: Do not over-tighten fitting. Maximum torque is 60 in. lbf.

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The 1966 Volkswagen has the engine in the back and shows nice low numbers. Had the car been longer, it would have shown much better numbers yet. The EMF measured came largely from the battery cable under the rear seat, and the ignition key. The best gasoline-powered cars are the 1987 Dodge Aries Wagon and the 1991 Cadillac Sedan deVille . The 1982 diesel Mercedes came in as the overall best, when the alternator and cruise control were disconnected. At those low levels, EMF from the speedometer and other moving pars become dominant when the car was running. With further work, that car got down to only 0.02 milligauss. More recent diesel vehicles are unlikely to get as good, as they have more electronics, including electronic fuel injectors.

For each vehicle, up to ten measurements are shown. The numbers are in the unit miligauss (10milligauss = 1 microtesla). The columns correspond to the eight locations, as shown on the diagram. Location 1 and 4 are done twice; with the engine idling and with the engine revved up. Test point 1 through 7 are places where a driver would be exposed while driving the vehicle. For most people, the highest reading is the most significant. Some electrically sensitive people may be more sensitive in some body parts than in others. In that case, give more weight to the appropriate measurement point. Point eight is only of interest if a sensitive person is largely going to be a passenger, In that case, the back seat is usually better anyway.

The highest rating for any vehicle is usually test point 1, with eh engine revved up. This is the gas pedal, where the right foot will receive the measured level of EMF exposure continuously, while driving the car, unless using cruise control. However, cruise control can be problematic in itself. Looking over the tables, a pattern emerges, with trucks tending to have lower readings that cars, Great variation is seen between models of trucks, however. Two model-years of the Ford F-150 V6 truck have very different values, with the 1993 model showing 35 milligauss as the highest reading, while the 2000 model only shows 7 milligauss. The F- 150 was redesigned between those model years. The best truck is the Dodge Dakota V8 from 1997, with many close contenders.

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BEFORE STARTING
Your vehicle must be raised a minimum of 36 inches. A floor hoist is ideal. If no hoist is available, we strongly urge the use of axle stands as a safety measure. INSTALLATION PROCEDURE – PLEASE READ CAREFULLY.

RIGHT SIDE:
1. Disconnect the battery. Remove the spark plugs, spark plug heat shields, and spark plug wires.
2. Remove the headpipe from the exhaust manifolds to the catalytic converter.
3. Remove the oil dipstick tube, fan shroud, diverter valve, air injection manifold, and exhaust manifold.
4. Remove the right side motor mount bolt and jack the motor up approximately 1-1/2” to 3”.
5. Starting from below, work the header up into position. With the gasket in place, start the header bolts.
6. Reinstall the dipstick tube using the stock stud and tubular spacers provided in the accessory pack.
7. Install the air injection manifold in the fittings on the header, bending the tubes as needed.
8. Tighten all the header bolts evenly (most restricted first).

LEFT SIDE:
1. Remove the alternator, power steering pump, air injection manifold, all brackets attached to the exhaust manifold, and the exhaust manifold.
2. If there is a hydraulic clutch, remove the cross-shaft.
3. Starting from below, work the header up into position. With the gasket in place, start the bolts (most restricted first).
4. Replace the clutch slave cylinder and shield/cross-shaft.
5. Modify the alternator/power steering bracket as shown in Figure A. Install the bracket using the stock stud and tubular spacer provided in the accessory pack.
6. Install the alternator and power steering pump
7. Tighten header bolts evenly (most restricted first).
8. Install the air injection manifold in the fittings on the header, bending the tubes as needed.
9. To connect the headers to the exhaust, purchase a Hooker reducer kit, P/N 11025HKR.
10. Remove the oxygen sensor from the stock exhaust manifold and install it in the fitting on the left hand header. Lengthen the oxygen sensor wire (if required) and connect.
11. Connect the battery, start the engine, and check for leaks. Be sure all brake lines, fuel lines, transmission cooler lines, and electrical wires have sufficient clearance. Reroute as necessary.

NOTE: Finish the performance job your headers started by adding a Hooker competition dual exhaust system. Purchase Hooker’s Competition Header Dual Exhaust system, P/N 16532HKR (for 2WD) and P/N 16533HKR (for 4WD). Exhaust systems are mandrel bent, not press bent. Mandrel bending maintains a consistent inside diameter form maximum flow; press bending will crush the pipe, easily reducing volume by more than 10%. Use with a 2 1/4” ID Hooker Competition or Super Competition Turbo Muffler.
12. When finished, give your vehicle a test drive, checking carefully for any new noises. After several days of driving, retighten all bolts…

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Slide the triangle brackets, Part C, into the driver side front leg, Part D, and passen- ger side front leg, Part E, from the top. The 5/16-18 nuts are to face towards the rail side of the leg. Using the triangle di- mension diagram to the right as a guide, position the triangle brackets 3/4″ from the top of the leg. Tighten the 5/16-18 fasten- ers to 15 foot pounds of torque. Slide the triangle brackets, Part C, into each of the universal rear legs, Part F, from the top. Create a driver side and passen- ger side rear leg by facing the 5/16-18 nuts one direction on a leg and the other direc- tion on the other. Using the triangle dimen- sion diagram to the right as a guide, position the triangle brackets 3/4″ from the top of the leg. Tighten the 5/16-18 fasten- ers to 15 foot pounds of torque.

Place the cross member assembly, Part B, on its side with the WEATHER GUARD® Product logo facing down. Insert the driver and passenger side front leg assemblies, Parts D & E, into the cross member as- sembly by sliding them in from both ends. Now place the second cross member as- sembly, Part B, on its side with the WEATHER GUARD® Product logo facing up. Insert the two universal rear leg assem- blies, Part F, with the 5/16-18 nuts facing up, into the cross member assembly by sliding them in from both ends. STEP SIX Using a torque wrench tighten the 5/16-18 fasteners to 15 foot pounds at the dimen- sion shown in the chart to the right. Col- umn A is for the front assembly and column B is for the rear assembly. Place mounting pads, Part H, on top of the truck bed rails. Cut the notch into the mounting pad. Place the front assembly, from Step Six, onto the truck with the notched ends approximately 1/8″ from the front of the truck bed. NOTE: Some truck beds will not allow the notch to travel all the way forward.

Place clamp block, Part K, on the threaded end of the clamp assembly, Part J. The clamp block has an offset hole. The thick side should face in to- wards the clamp. Use the thin side if extra clearance is needed. Sliding the clamp assembly, Part J, into the front assembly, place them as far away from each other and as close to the ends of the mounting rails as possible. Clamps can not be more than 9.5″ from either end of the mounting rail. Clamp blocks, Part K, are to be flush with the steel underside of the bed rail. Using a torque wrench, tighten the 3/8-16 fasteners in the clamp assembly to 10 foot pounds. For Ford F250/ 350 and some Dodge Dakota vehicles place the front assembly 3″ from front of truck bed. Hold the clamp assem- bly, Part J, in place and slide the mounting rail into the clamp until it is 1/8″ from the front of the truck. With the tailgate closed place the mounting pads, Part H, on top of the truck bed rails. Tape in place the mounting wedge, Part I, on top of the mounting pad using the diagram to the right as a guide.

Set the rear mounting rail, Part G, on top of the wedge and pad 1/8″ from the closed tail gate. Sliding the assembly clamps, Part J, into the rear mounting rail, Part G, place them as far away from each other and as close to the ends of the mounting rails as pos- sible. Clamps can not be more than 9.5″ from the ends of the mounting rails. Clamp blocks, Part K, are to be flush with the steel underside of the bed rail. Using a torque wrench, tighten the 3/8-16 fasten- ers in the clamps to 10 foot pounds. Disassemble the mounting bar, Part L, from the rear assembly hardware kit and reas- semble on the rear leg assembly, from Step Six. Repeat process for other rear leg. With the tailgate open, slide the rear cross member assembly, from Step Six, into the mounting rail channels with the logo facing towards the rear. The driver side and pas- senger side need to slide into the mount- ing rail at the same time in order to avoid binding. Legs can be placed at any loca- tion along the mounting rail. Using a torque wrench, tighten the four 5/16″ hex head bolts to 15 foot pounds.

NOTE: Due to the taper of some truck beds, it may be necessary to shorten the distance between the legs as you slide the assembly towards the front of the vehicle. Tool Box Mounting Procedure If a bed rail mounted tool box is to be in- stalled with the Model 1200 or 1205, use the 1/4″ thick shims, Part M, that are pro- vided in the tool box mounting hardware kit (came with the ATR TM ) along with the “J” bolts (supplied with the tool box). This will insure a level mounting of the tool box on the truck bed rails. Where the mounting rails (Parts D, E, & F) obstruct the use of a “J” Bolt, use a 5/16- 18 x 3/4″ self-tapping bolt, Part N, in its place which is supplied in the tool box mounting hardware kit that came with the ATRTM. Place the tool box in the desired location on the truck and trace the mounting slot in the bottom of the tool box directly onto the mounting rail. Move the tool box out of the way and drill a 1/4″ dia. hole 3/4″ from the inside edge of the mounting rail. (See diagram) Reset the tool box in the desired position and install the 5/16-18 x 3/4″ self tapping bolt and fender washer. The fender washer came with the “J” bolts. If needed, use the 1/4″ shims, Part M, to level the tool box on the truck.

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Full Size Truck Model 1200 PDF Installation Instructions

But if advancing personal mobility is our goal, fun is our passion. What would you expect from the world’s largest motorcycle manufacturer? Safety is another. It’s the reason we put our most advanced safety technology in nearly every vehicle we sell. Looking to the future, our minds are open
and our spirit is ready. As Soichiro Honda once put it: “An idea is nothing if it isn’t put into action.”

Let’s expand our expectations. Let’s make choices that will benefit all of us. Like a vehicle big enough to comfortably carry five and their gear, yet gets up to 35 mpg. A super-spunky engine. Trigger-happy paddle shifters on Fit Sport. An interior with the flexibility of a contortionist. And a host of standard safety features, including Honda’s exclusive Advanced Compatibility Engineering body structure. Honda Fit. A city’s greatest champion. fit.honda.com

Initiate extreme turn-in. This is Si territory. Where superior performance challenges the laws of physics every day. And since the Si Coupe is usually in motion, we’d like to point out some styling cues you might miss. Like new fog lights and 17-inch wheels. Inside the experience revs up with a close-ratio 6-speed manual transmission and Vehicle Stability Assist VSA technology. Now go carve a path of your own. civic.honda.com

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