Be careful that exhaust is supported when removing isolators. Then remove metal muffler hanger bracket(s) from frame by removing nuts holding them to bottom of frame. Return metal hanger bracket(s), bolt(s) and nut(s) to owner. Remove existing 6mm nuts holding muffler heat shield(s) to bottom of Hyundai Sonata vehicle. (4) per heat shield. See next page for heat shield trimming. Shield(s) will be trimmed and replaced after installing fasteners but before installing hitch.

Using bolt-leaders fish-wire 3/8”-16 x 1-1/4” carriage bolts and carriage blocks through 7/8” diameter holes in bottom of frame on both sides of vehicle and pull down through 3/4” diameter holes in bottom of frame toward rear of vehicle. Now using bolt-leaders fish-wire 3/8”-16 x 1” carriage bolts and carriage blocks up through 7/8” diameter holes and back down through same hole both sides of vehicle. Now trim muffler heat shield(s) before raising hitch into position. See pictures on next page for detail on how to trim muffler heat shield(s). After trimming shield(s) re-install them on vehicle before mounting hitch to Hyundai vehicle.

Raise hitch into position and install conical toothed washers and nuts on bolts installed in Step 1. Be careful not to push bolts back up into frame. Insert flat washers as needed on rear attachments between hitch and frame to take up space. On dual tailpipe vehicles it may be necessary to push hitch towards the passenger side as far as possible so that hitch bracket is up against vehicle trunk pan. This allows more clearance for exhaust on Driver’s side. Torque fasteners to specifications below.

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Step 6: Set cover assembly on front bulkhead
Step 7: – Place side rails on truck bed rails. – Assemble rear clamps as shown. This will hold side rails in place. – Insert side rail corner plugs in front header.
Step 8: Place remaining clamps. notice: Each clamp assembly, starting at the front then to back, has a special groove alignment. See detail 8a, 8b,and 8c.

Step 9: Align cover with pickup bed
Step 10: Tighten front clamps
Step 11: Tighten Center Clamps
Step 12: Leave 1/8” clearance between tailgate header and side rails.
Step 13: Tighten rear clamps: reinstall cargo cleats and rear plugs.
Step 14: Install weather seal on tailgate corner plugs: Corner plug
Step 15: Close Cover: Release safety straps, and unroll cover over pickup bed. Open tailgate. With tailgate open, hook tailgate header into header stops on both sides of vehicle. Rotate tailgate header down until both latches engage. Listen for double click. Secure loop to hook fasteners on one side rail by pressing edge of cover along full length of rail.

Tools Required:
1/2” Socket
3/8” Drive Ratchet
Scissor

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Installation
1. Secure the Relays to the next to the Battery with wire ties (see Picture 1)
2. Attach a T-Tap to the high beam (see note) wire. Attach a T-Tap to the low beam wire
3. Attach the switch relay’s white wire to the high beam T-Tap and blue wire to low beam T-Tap
4. Attach the 2 black wires from each relay to ground
5. Attach fog light relay’s red wire to the positive terminal + of the battery
6. Install split loom tube over long wires from relays to fire wall. Locate the large vehicle harness grommet on the left side. Cut the auxiliary grommet and push both wires through wiring access nipple off the
7. Run the split loom tube with all wires on the driver side of the car. Use 8″ wire ties as needed
8. From inside the cabin locate the switch wires that were pushed through in step 6
9. Mount switch into switch knockout of dash
10. Install switch harness
11. Attach ground (black) wire to ground
12. Connect the white wire of switch harness to the white wire of fog light harness
13. Connect the red wire of switch harness to red wire.
14. Reinstall dash panels
15. Route the fog light wire under car.
16. Remove fog light cover plates and lower splash shields
17. Mount both fog lights into bumper.
18. Snap on both fog light bezels
19. Plug in left side fog light into harness plug
20. Run right fog light wire harness and secure with wire ties
21. Reattach the lower splash shields

Check System for Operation
1. Reconnect battery negative terminal
2. Turn on headlamp low beams, then press fog light switch to “ON” position. Fog lights should be working. Fog lights will only work when the low beam headlamps are “ON”. Fog lights will NOT work when the high beam headlamps are “ON”

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After You Buy Before heading out on a trip, check your vehicle’s Owner Guide for break-in and severe-duty maintenance schedules (do not tow a trailer until your vehicle has been driven at least 500 miles). Be sure to have your fully-loaded vehicle (including passengers) and trailer weighed so as not to exceed critical weight limits. If any of these limits are exceeded, cargo should be removed from the vehicle and/or trailer until all weights are within the specified limits.

BRAKES Many states require a separate braking system on trailers with a loaded weight of more than 1,500 pounds. For your safety, Ford Taurus Company recommends that a separate functional brake system be used on any towed vehicle, including those dolly-towed or towbar-towed. There are several basic types of brake systems designed to activate trailer brakes:
1. Electronically Controlled Brakes usually provide automatic and manual control of Ford trailer brakes. They require that the tow vehicle be equipped with a controlling device and additional wiring for electrical power. These brakes typically have a control box installed within reach of the driver and can be applied manually or automatically.
2. Electric-Over-Hydraulic (EOH) Trailer Brakes are operated by an electrically powered pump that pressurizes a hydraulic fluid reservoir built into the trailer’s brake system. Many of the available EOH trailer brake models are compatible with Ford’s factory installed, dash-integrated Trailer Brake Controller (TBC).
3. Surge Brakes are independent hydraulic brakes activated by a master cylinder at the junction of the hitch and trailer tongue. They are not controlled by the hydraulic fluid in the tow vehicle’s brake system, and the tow vehicle’s hydraulic system should never be connected directly to the trailer’s hydraulic system.

TRAILER LAMPS Make sure the trailer is equipped with lights that conform to all applicable government regulations. The trailer lighting system should not be connected directly to the lighting system of the vehicle. See a local recreational vehicle dealer or rental trailer agency for correct
wiring and relays for the trailer and heavy-duty flashers.

SAFETY CHAINS • Always use safety chains when towing. Safety chains are used to retain connection between the towing and towed vehicle in the event of separation of the trailer coupling or ball • Use cross chains under the trailer tongue to prevent the tongue from contacting the ground if a separation occurs. Allow only enough slack to permit full turning – be sure they do not drag on the pavement • When using a frame-mounted trailer hitch, attach the safety chains to the frame-mounted hitch using the recommendations supplied by the hitch manufacturer
• See your vehicle’s Owner Guide for safety chain attachment information
• For rental trailers, follow rental agency instructions for hookup of safety chains

TRAILER WIRING HARNESS • Some vehicles equipped with a factory-installed Trailer Tow Package include a trailer wiring harness and a wiring kit
• This kit includes one or more jumper harnesses (to connect to your trailer wiring connector) and installation instructions .

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KIT Assembly:
1. Locate the factory wiring harness in the dash. Metra recommends using their own or mating adapter Metra AXXESS. Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery and test the unit for proper operation.
2. Connect two double brackets on the double DIN DIN ISO floating head or wear the head unit using the screws provided with the radio. (Fig. A)
3. Insert the radio and kit for the dashboard and switch mounting board

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Step 2 – Gather the required tools. Please gather the following tools before you begin the installation:
* Power Drill
* 3/16″, 9/64″ drill bits
* 5/16″ socket and socket wrench
* Fine permanent marker or felt tip pen
* Masking tape
* Tape Measure
* Hammer & center punch
* Rivet gun, capable of 3/16″ rivets (most brands can handle this size) Note: Only use the rivets supplied in the Quick-Lift kit.

Step 3 – Locate Driver’s side upper bracket.
A. Place a piece of masking tape on the edge of the hood as shown to the right. Run the tape along the edge of the hood – this will be used to mark the centerline of the hood bracket.
B. Place a mark at exactly 11″ from the corner of the hood as shown.
Recommended: Craftsman standard or Swivel Riveter (shown – 974749) – $9.99 to $17.99

Step 4 – Align Driver’s side hood bracket and mark 1st hole.
A. Hold hood bracket such that the ball stud faces toward the center of the vehicle and bracket is tucked up into the corner as shown to the right.
B. Using a marker, place a dot at the center of the lower hole once the centerline of the ball stud is lined up with your mark.
C. Using a center punch and a hammer, tap the center of the dot you just made (this indention will help guide the drill bit and keep it from wandering. Place bracket back in place to be sure it is still centered where it should be before moving to Step 5.

Step 5 – Drill 3/16″ hole.
A. Carefully drill the lower bracket hole as shown to the right using a 3/16″ drill bit.
Only use a 3/16″ drill bit – the rivet will not work properly with any other size drill bit. Be careful not to drill up through hood!

Step 6 – Rivet lower end of bracket to hood.
A. Hold the bracket in position.
B. With the bracket lined up again, place a rivet through the bracket and hole with the long stem sticking outward – shown to the right. The rivet may require a few twists while pushing it in. Hold bracket in place using a piece of tape.
C. Check to be sure your rivet gun has the 3/16″ rivet head installed, then slide rivet gun onto rivet. While applying force to the rivet and bracket, firmly squeeze riveter handle multiple times until rivet gun pops and snaps off the rivet stem. Be careful when rivet stem snaps off.

Step 7 – Drill upper hole of hood bracket.
A. Reposition and align bracket into the proper position against hood lip.
B. Carefully drill the second hole through bracket hole and hood. Be careful not to drill up through top of the hood.
C. Rivet the upper hole as described in the previous step.

Step 8 – Repeat steps 3-7 and install the passenger side hood bracket.
A. The Cougar hood has a symetrical understructure. Repeat Steps 3-7 to install the upper passenger side hood bracket. Take your time and verify the measurements using the bracket you just installed – if you were 1/8″ off on the drivers side, put the passenger side bracket at the same distance .

Step 9 – Position and mark first hole for driver’s side fender bracket.
A. Hold the bracket in position as shown to the right. The inside of the bracket should sit 7/8″ from the fender with the ball stud pointing toward the fender and approximately 2-3/4″ from the body bracket to the edge of the ball-stud bracket.
B. Verify measurements and then mark upper hole using a fine permanent marker.

Step 10 – Mark hole center before drilling.
A. Using a center punch and a hammer, tap the center of the marked hole. This will help guide the drill bit and keep it from wandering.

Step 11 – Drill lower of left hole using 9/64″ drill bit.
A. Drill the lower or left hole at the marked position using a 9/64″ drill bit. Do not ream or over drill the hole – any larger and the threads will not hold securely.

Step 12 – Attach the lower or left end of the bracket to fender.
A. Using a color matching paint, touch up the area where you just drilled the hole.
B. Using a 5/16″ socket and wrench, carefully screw the left or lower screw into the fender using the supplied sheet metal screw.
Apply adequate pressure while screwing the sheet metal screw in – you will be creating threads in the fender and it will require force.

Step 13 – Mark center with marker and indent with center punch.
A. Using a permanent marker, mark the right or upper hole of the fender bracket. Be sure the bracket is parallel to the fender. Twist to align if necessary.
B. Using a center punch and hammer, tap the center of the marked hole. This will help guide the drill bit and keep it from wandering.

Step 14 – Drill second hole and attach bracket.
A. Drill the second hole through the bracket hole using a 9/64″ drill bit. Do not ream or over drill the hole – any larger and the threads will not hold securely.
B. Attach the bracket using the same 5/16″ socket and wrench. Do not over tighten, but secure both screws at this time.

Step 15 – Repeat steps 9-14 to attach the passenger fender bracket.
A. Repeat Steps 9-14 to attach the passenger side fender bracket. The vehicle is symmetrical so the same locators can be used. Feel free to measure off of key areas to ensure a symmetrical installation.

Step 16 – Cycle both gas springs 3 times
A. CYCLE EACH GAS SPRING BEFORE INSTALLING – firmly hold a gas spring with both hands by the thick cylindrical end – firmly press down on the floor or carpet and compress the spring. Do this to both springs many times to lubricate the rods.

Step 17 – Install gas springs.
A. Have a friend hold the hood up. Remove the stock prop rod assembly at this time.
B. Install the driver’s side gas-spring with the cylinder at the bottom (large end down and connected to the fender ball stud). Be sure that the strut sockets snap securely onto the ball studs. Continue holding the hood while until

Step 18 – Install the strut locking clips.
A. Insert the strut locking clips as shown below.
Note: Photos below show the fender end of the ball stud – you will find it easier if you first install the hood end of the struts, including locking clips, and then move to the lower fender ends last.

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Installing Your 1955/56 Classic Gauge Set. Disassemble the Original Gauge Set
Step 1: When using the original stock bezel, disassemble the dash by removing the bezel. (Figure 1)
Step 2: Place the original bezel face down on a flat surface. (Figure 2)
Step 3: Remove the six (6) screws that hold the gauge cluster in the bezel. The screws are located around the perimeter of the bezel. (Figure 3)
Step 4: Remove gauge cluster from bezel.
Step 5: Remove inner insert and glass. (Figure 4)

For manual transmissions, skip steps 6 – 8 and go directly to assembly section.
Step 6: For automatic transmissions, remove gear selector bracket (2 screws) and disengage spring. (Figure 5)
Step 7: Remove gear selector glass. (Figure 5)
Step 8: Remove stock gear selector pointer. (Figure 6). Assembling Your New Classic Gauge Set. Note: Assembling using after-market bezel may require enlargements of mounting holes.

For manual transmissions, skip steps 1 – 4 & 6
Step 1: Place the furnished gear selector glass (small) over the gear selector housing.
Step 2: Before placing gear selector bracket over glass, file corners about 1/8 inch on the back side. (Figure 7)
Step 3: Use a very small amount of trim tape (supplied) on the back of the gear selector bracket to adhere glass. Note: Make sure that the tape is not visible from the front.
Step 4: Place gear selector bracket over gear selector glass.
Step 5: Use a very small amount of trim tape (supplied) around bezel and rim, then place large glass into the housing in order to cushion glass and prevent glass rattle.
Step 6: Place gear selector movement over stock bracket. (Figure
Step 7: Stack nylon washers over the mounting holes of the gear selector movement to make glass bracket level with glass.(Figure 9)
Step 8: Place glass brackets on each side of the bracket, making sure to push it into the corners completely. Screw down with (2) 8-32 x ½” screws and star washers. (Figure 9 & 10)
Step 9: Place Classic Instruments cluster into bezel.
Step 10: Use the six (6) furnished screws to screw the Classic Instruments cluster to the bezel.
Note: The aluminum housing interferes with the top hole. Remove both nuts in housing, insert mounting screw, and replace the two aluminum housing nuts.
Step 11: Plug supplied light into the bottom of the gauge cluster.

Wiring your 1955 / 56 Chevy Classic Gauge Set. Speedometer, Tachometer, Volt and Oil Pressure Gauge
Step 1: Connect the pink wire of the instrument harness to a +12VDC switched power source.
Step 2: Connect the black wire of the instrument harness to a good chassis ground.
Step 3: Connect the purple wire of the instrument harness to one of the following: One of the wires from a mechanical 2-wire pulse signal generator. Connect the other wire to instrument ground from step 2. The white wire from a mechanical 3-wire pulse signal generator. One of the wires from a built in 2-wire electronic speed sensor on the transmission. Connect the other wire to instrument ground from step 2. Speedometer signal wire from the computer.
Step 4: Connect the red wire of the instrument harness to the red wire of a mechanical 3-wire pulse signal generator (only if 3-wire sender is being used). Connect the black wire of a mechanical 3- wire pulse signal generator to a good chassis ground (if 3-wire sender is being used).
Step 5: Connect the white wire of the instrument harness to the tachometer signal.
Step 6: Connect the blue wire of the instrument harness to the oil pressure sender.
Step 7: Connect the grey wire of the instrument harness to a +12VDC dash light power source.
Step 8: Connect the green wire of the instrument harness to the +12VDC high beam indicator signal.
Step 9: Connect the brown wire of the instrument harness to one lead of the function / setup pushbutton. Connect the other lead of the function / setup pushbutton to a good chassis ground.

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1957 Chevy Classic Gauge Set Instrument PDF Installation Manual

Chapter 1 – Plug&Play kit
Chapter 2 – Connections
Chapter 3 – Select the configuration
Chapter 4 – ECU communication protocol
Appendix A – Porsche Cup ECU Bridge pinout
Appendix B – Part numbers

Below is the snippets above document, detail information can be downloaded through link that provided in the bottom of the page.

To connect SmartyCam to ECU Bridge: Connect the 7-pins female connector placed left on SmartyCam back to the 2m or 4m power + CAN cable supplied with the kit (see above scheme).

2.2 – Connecting ECU Bridge to Porsche GT3 Cup
To connect the ECU Bridge to the vehicle:
• Furthermore – If the vehicle is equipped with a data acquisition system – connect the 5 pins female connector of ECU Bridge to the logger.
• Plug the 5-pins male connector of ECU Bridge into the 5-pins female Deutsch socket placed near the ECU (see below images).

Once ECU Bridge is properly connected, it is necessary to configure it in Race Studio 2 software. Please follow these instructions:
• Run Race Studio2 Software;
• Create a configuration pressing “New”;
• Select “Bosch”;from “ECU manufacturer” drop down menu;
• Select from “ECU Model” drop down menu: “MS3”;
• Select “SmartyCam Function setting” to set SmartyCam channels (refer to
• Race Studio Configuration manual for more details);
• Transmit the configuration to AIM logger clicking “Transmit”.

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