The Pontiac Solstice and its Saturn Sky sibling rest on a dedicated platform. Two engines are available to power these two-seater, rear-drive roadsters, a normally aspirated four cylinder for the base model, and a turbocharged four cylinder in GXP trim for the Pontiac and for the Red Line version of the Saturn.

Interior and trunk The Pontiac Solstice is a low car, and access is difficult for just about everyone. The seats are comfortable but have no lumbar adjustment. With the doors closed it is almost impossible to reach the seatback-angle adjuster. The driving position is good for average-sized people but tight and not as pleasant for heavily built individuals. A taller person’s head tops the windshield slightly and brushes against the roof when it’s up. Side bolstering is quite good but the cabin is so narrow, the bolsters rub against the door armrests, especially in a curve. The steering wheel is tilt only and masks the top part of the speedometer and tachymeter for most drivers.

You’d have to be a relatively strong person to manipulate the roof alone. Folding it into the trunk and closing the trunk require quite an effort. Putting it back up is even more of a job. It has to be lifted, preferably by two people to avoid bending the roof frame, and locked in place, after which the rear roof “pillars” are folded. It’s not exactly an award-winning design. Trunk space goes from extremely limited with the top up to practically nil with the top down, in which case luggage is not an option.

Convenience and safety The quality of cabin finish and materials is average, and there is lots of rather thin plastic. Soundproofing is adequate with the roof up. Cubbies are few and far between, and the cup holders are far back and very hard to reach. All gauges and controls are well laid out except the power window controls, which are too far back on the doors. The cruise control and radio buttons are too small. The climate control system is efficient.

Safety equipment includes two front air bags, four-wheel disc brakes with ABS, skid control (ABS and skid control are optional in the base version), and good headlights. The head restraints are too low for tall people. Visibility is hampered by the rear- view mirror, which creates a large blind zone on an angle to the right, and by the wide A-pillars. With the top up, there are large blind zones on a three-quarter-rear angle. The outside mirrors are small and positioned a bit too far back. Short people even have problems with visibility towards the front. In U.S. government crash tests, the Solstice obtained four out of five stars for occupant protection in a frontal impact as well as in case of a side impact. It earned five stars for rollover resistance. Engine and transmission

The 2.0-litre, direct-injection turbocharged engine develops 260 horsepower and 260 pound-feet of torque, providing energetic performance. Since there is virtually no turbo lag, acceleration and pickup are smooth, lively and linear. More vigorous power is available starting at 2,000 rpm. The generous torque ensures very smooth engine performance. The five-speed manual gearbox is relatively easy to use, except for fifth, which requires a bit more energy to engage. The transmission is well geared, and clutch take-up is quite firm.

On the road The four-wheel independent suspension provides a very smooth ride overall. A firm bounce can jostle the occupants, sometimes quite stiffly, on some bumps. Road holding is very good on nearly all surfaces. This Pontiac is at home on winding roads and has a tenacious, stable grip that lets you whip through turns. A bit heavy at low speed, the power steering is stable, precise, and quick, but not too quick, to avoid constant corrections on uneven surfaces. Unfortunately, it transmits very little road sensation, which is unpardonable in a sporty roadster. Braking is powerful and fade resistant.

Inspection Our inspection at a CAA-Quebec technical inspection centre showed that the engine compartment presents a couple of problems in that the engine oil dipstick is hard to reach and the wiper fluid tank is placed on the left, at the base of the windshield, which is not safe for roadside fill-ups. There are no protective plates for the front brake discs. The underside and suspension are sturdy. There is no rustproofing but several joints are at least sealed. The emergency brake return spring is very small, which seems to indicate that the brake could seize up quite quickly. The overhead camshafts are chain driven.

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Pontiac Solstice Turbocharged Four Cylinder GXP 2008 PDF Specification

Removal of stock system
a. Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body.
b. Unclasp the spring clamp. Remove the PCV breather hose from the inlet tube.
c. Loosen the hose clamp at the air box. Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor connector.
d. Loosen the inlet resonator tube mounting bolt located near the throttle body.
e. Loosen the remaining inlet resonator tube mounting bolt.
f. Loosen the air box mounting bolt.
g. Loosen the remaining air box mounting bolt. Remove the air box from the engine bay, careful not to damage the hood.
h. Remove the engine cover by pulling straight up on all four corners. This part will be reused.
i. Remove the breather hose by unclasping the spring clamp. Both clamps will be reused.
j. Remove the tree mount wire tie from the engine bracket.

Installation of AEM® intake system.
a. When installing the intake system, do not completely tighten the hose clamps or mounting hardware until instructed to do so.
b. Install the supplied rubber mount. Secure the bottom of the rubber mount with the M6 washer and serrated nut in the hole left by the tree mount wire tie.
c. Remove the MAF sensor from the stock air box. The mounting screws will be reused.
d. Attach the coupler at the throttle body as shown. Secure with the #44 hose clamps.
e. Insert the MAF sensor as shown. NOTE: The direction to flow noted on the sensor. Tighten with the factory hardware.
f. Insert the intake pipe into the coupler at the throttle body. Attach the supplied breather hose and secure with the factory spring clamps.
g. Align the bracket with the rubber mount. Secure with the M6 washer and M6 serrated nut. Reconnect the MAF sensor wire harness connector.
h. Attach the air filter element as shown and secure with the #48 hose clamp. Check for clearance against the radiator shroud. Attach filter sock to protect against the elements.

Reassemble Vehicle
a. Engine Cover: Replace the engine cover.
b. Position the inlet pipes for the best fitment. Be sure that the pipes or any other components do not contact any part of the vehicle. Tighten the rubber mount, all bolts, and hose clamps.
c. Check for proper hood clearance. Re-adjust pipes if necessary and re-tighten them.
d. Inspect the engine bay for any loose tools and check that all fasteners that were moved or removed are properly tightened.
e. Reconnect negative battery terminals and start engine. Let the vehicle idle for 3 minutes. Perform a final inspection before driving the vehicle.

Pontiac Solstice part list item:
Prefilter, 5″ Black
Element Parts Kit 2.75 X 5″ Dry Ele.
1/2″ Bnd. Hose Clamp,2.56″-3.50″
Inlet Pipe
Elbow, 2.75 X 90 1″ Legs
1/2″ Bnd. Hose Clamp, 2.31-3.25″
Hose; 1/2″ID X 6-1/2″L
Washer, 6mm Soft Mount
Nut, M6 Hex Serrated
Mount, Rubber 5/8″ X 6mm

Download Pontiac Solstice 2.4L 2008-2009 Intake System PDF Installation Instructions

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Pontiac Solstice 2.4L 2008-2009 Intake System PDF Installation Instructions

Remove radiator cover. To gain the access necessary to install the upper grilles, you will need to free the radiator cover that is held in place by four 10mm bolts and six pop-top fasteners (locations pictured in Fig. 2). Pop-top fasteners are removed by inserting a small flat head screw driver in the slot, prying the inner section up, and then pulling the fastener up (see Fig. 3).

Install upper grilles. Re-install the chrome trim on each side. There are 4 holes around each grille opening that were used for the OEM grille.
These will be free now that the OEM grille is removed and will be used for nylon ties on your new grille. Feed a Figure grille from the back of the respective opening and then feed a nylon tie through the top opening (see Figure 4). Loosely attach this first tie, and then feed ties through each of the other 3 holes through the proper loops (the lower three loops intended for use with the nylon ties are deeper and easily identified). When all 4 ties are secured cut the ends and repeat step 1.3 for the opposite side.

Remove the lower grilles. Each of the lower grilles is held in place by seven hooks (see Fig. 4), two body panel fasteners, and two strips of adhesive tape. Using needle-nose pliers, you can pry the body panel fasteners free. Using the playing card method of Fig. 1, carefully pry each of the hooks on the top and bottom edge of the grille free from the bumper. The hook on the ends is a slot that is freed when you pull the grille out of the opening. The adhesive tape will offer some resistance. Press firmly on the grille and break the tape free. Then pull the grille out of the opening.

Install lower grille inserts in factory grilles Prepare each lower grille to accept the grille insert. Drill 1/8” holes in the locations depicted in Fig. 5 The holes will be used with nylon ties to hold each grille insert in the stock grilles. To get a better idea of where to drill the holes, place the respective insert in the grille and mark where the holes need to be with a pencil. Remember, they can be placed such that they are invisible when the inserts are installed. With the holes drilled, secure the inserts with nylon ties. The easiest way to do this is by securing the end closest to the fog light hole and then the far end.

Install lower grille assembly To re-install the grill, feed the tab that is on the fog light end into the bumper slot, and then push the grille around its border until each of the hooks snaps into place (you will feel them snap). Then push each of the body panel fasteners back into place.

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IDPs provide unique levels of vibration isolation within the accessory drive belt system. This results in quieter and smoother performance particularly in more torsionally active engine applications. With its unique internal clutching mechanism, the RotoRx® IDP is able to effectively isolate vibrations through absorption. The clutch mechanism also includes engineered internal damping elements to further control vibrations
and resonances that would otherwise be felt within the vehicle’s passenger compartment. IDPs also include a decoupling feature that enables the alternator to coast freely if the belt speed is suddenly and rapidly decreased, such as during engine shut down or transmission shifting. Besides quieter performance, IDPs allow manufacturers to use narrower belts with lower output tensioners. The lower system tension means the alternator, water pump, and other accessory bearings will last much longer. Here’s how IDPs stack up against other pulleys: The Solid Alternator Pulley used to be the industry standard and has been around for many years. It has evolved from the V type to the V-ribbed type (serpentine belt). Its only purpose is to drive the alternator via the belt. If your alternator has a solid pulley, only replace if damaged, rusted, or worn.

The Overrunning Alternator Pulley (One-Way Clutch) has a simple one-way clutch inside the pulley. This internal clutch allows the rotor of the alternator to coast to a stop when the engine is shut down. This “overrunning” feature eliminates “chirp” sounds that occur when the engine decelerates quickly, causing the belt to slip (engine shut down or transmission shifting).

The Isolator Decoupler Pulley (IDP) not only has a one-way clutch inside, it also incorporates a torsion spring to absorb energy. The effects of the internal clutch are the same as mentioned above; however, the patented internal torsion spring design is the key to the much higher level of function associated with the IDP. The internal spring is tuned (engine specific) to absorb base engine vibrations (cylinder firing pulses) before they reach the alternator rotor and negatively affect the accessory drive. With the IDP installed you will see much less tensioner motion, reduced noise, vibration, and harshness and an all around more robust accessory drive.

What to look for… IDPs should rotate freely in one direction and have a “spring feel” in the other direction. Service life of the IDP is also dependent on the duty cycle, driving conditions (city vs. highway), and seasonal temperature variations. Since these conditions are generally
unknown when rebuilding the alternator, you should always install a new IDP at this time. This will ensure a quality rebuilt alternator and help
eliminate field failures. Never substitute a solid alternator pulley or a simple Overrunning Alternator Pulley in place of an IDP. The vehicle manufacturer has designed the vehicle with this higher level of function for a reason! Substituting a different alternator pulley may cause damage to accessory drive components. IDPs should always be checked when replacing any accessory drive component or every 40,000 miles (65,000 kms).

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Tracker
1. Apply the parking brake until the end of Step 6.
2. Turn the key to ON or ACC.
3. Find the access hole cover on the driver’s side of the console, near the shift lever.
4. Remove the screw and cover.
5. Locate the return plate. Using a finger, move the return plate toward the rear of the vehicle until it stops (figure 8).
6. Move the shift lever into the desired gear.

Saturn ION
ION is equipped with an electronic park lock actuator. In the event that the ignition key cannot be rotated to the OFF/LOCK position and removed from the lock cylinder, use the following procedure to manually override the electronic park lock actuator.
1. Make sure the vehicle is in Park (P).
2. Using a flat-tipped tool or another key, carefully pry off the cover from the bottom of the steering column (figure 9).
3. Place your index finger through the access hole and locate the end of the electronic park lock actuator plunger (figure 10).
4. Press and hold the plunger toward the driver’s side door while rotating the ignition key to the OFF/ LOCK position. Remove the key.

Pontiac Vibe
If you cannot shift out of Park (P), ease pressure on the shift lever by pushing the shift lever all the way into Park (P) and releasing the shift lever button as you maintain brake application. Then press the shift lever button and move the shift lever into Neutral (N). If you hold the brake pedal down but still can’t shift out of Park (P), do the following:
1. Turn the ignition to LOCK. Make sure the parking brake is applied.
2. Carefully pry the shift-lock override small, round cover from the floor-shift console located to the right of the shift lever (figure 11).
3. Insert the end of a flat-tipped tool into the circular slot and press down firmly.
4. While maintaining brake application, move the shift lever into Neutral (N).

Cadillac CTS
Automatic transmission CTS vehicles are equipped with a shift lock release. Use the following procedure to release the shift lever and shift the vehicle into Park (P) under dead battery or low battery voltage conditions.
1. Pull up on the rear part of the leather boot that surrounds the shift lever (figure 12).
2. Fold the boot upward to expose the mechanism benath the shift lever.
3. Locate and remove the small oval cap near the forward, right side of shift mechanism (figure 13).
4. Using a narrow, pointed tool, press down on the mechanism under the cap so that you can move the shift lever (figure 14).

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Check Your Package Contents
Your AutoEnginuity ScanTool package should contain:
• 1 x CD-ROM containing software, supporting files, and an electronic version of the ScanTool User Guide
• 1 x AutoEnginuity ScanTool OBD-II connector
NOTE: If any of the above items are missing, please contact your reseller. Operating the ScanTool

Installing the Software
1. Insert the CD-ROM into your PC’s CD-ROM or DVD-ROM drive.
2. The Setup program will automate the installation process. Follow the instructions provided on your screen.
Connecting the OBD-II Connector to the Vehicle
WARNING: DO NOT USE A POWER INVERTER WITHOUT AN “ISOLATED GROUND” WITH ANY USB PRODUCT CONNECTED TO YOUR VEHICLE. A GROUND LOOP MAY OCCUR.
1. Locate the Data Link Connector (DLC) in your vehicle. It is most often located below the dash or steering column in the driver’s area. Typically it is not covered and will not require a tool to access (notable exceptions being BMW & MINI). A crouching technician should be able to see it under the dash or steering column. (See Appendix A of the User Guide for details on hard to find DLCs.)
2. Firmly connect the AutoEnginuity ProLine or OBD-II connector to the vehicle’s DLC.
3. Connect the “PC” end of the AutoEnginuity ProLine or OBD-II connector to your computing device with the USB or serial cable.
4. Turn the vehicle’s key to the “ON” position. In rare cases, starting the vehicle may help to operate the ScanTool. You will be required to start the vehicle for some onboard system tests to run, and for some live vehicle data sensors to report (i.e., oxygen sensor, ignition timing advance #1, etc.). NOTE: Never operate a vehicle within a confined space. Vehicle emissions are dangerous.

Operating the Software
1. Launch the ScanTool program from the Start | Programs | AutoEnginuity menu.
2. The Connection Status window will appear over the ScanTool program. If the ScanTool doesn’t automatically start connecting to your vehicle. Select Vehicle | Connect.
3. The ScanTool program connection settings are defaulted to USB or Manually Set Serial Port for the computer interface and Auto Detect for the vehicle interface type. The ScanTool can usually connect to all vehicles with these settings. If this is not the case, you may be required to manually change these settings. In the Connection Status window, click either the AutoEnginuity logo or select Vehicle | Communications Configuration to change the serial/COM port and/or vehicle interface type. If you have trouble getting the first checkmark, see Appendix D: Serial Port Troubleshooting in your ScanTool User Guide for more help. For details on which vehicle interface type to select, see Table 1: Vehicle Interface.
4. As each step is completed, a checkmark will appear next to it. When the first two checkmarks appear, the ScanTool is connected to the vehicle and will ask you to tell it the make, model, and year. This information is required to help the software translate all the data it retrieves. Click OK when you are done. Once all the steps have completed, the Connection Status window will disappear and you are free to operate AutoEnginuity’s ScanTool.

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GMC OldsMobile Pontiac Ford Mazda Vehicles OBD-II Connector Quick Installation Guide PDF Manual

1. Flat head screwdriver or 8mm socket
2. Rotary saw with cutoff wheel (dremel)
3. Wire cutters
4. 30-45 min
Read the instructions completely through before beginning the installation, this includes the FAQ section. The GTO/Holden vehicle has a 3/4 inch variation from left to right and front to back and the engine is twisted in the frame. We have made adjustments in the kit to allow for just about any combination. If you run into something different during your install , don’t panic, our R&D department has over 20 different combinations, just call us direct at 713-477-8100 and we will get you set up with what you need. If you are uncomfortable with any aspect of this installation, simply allow a qualified installation technician to do the install for you

BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION
Remove your factory air box or existing cold air system. Remove front facial cover by lifting the plastic push clips Mark a “HORIZONTAL” line across the backside of the shroud 3/4 inch “BELOW” the top of the radiator line. This removes the small tabs that stick out at the back in one cut.
Next Release shroud from tabs and lift approximately 2-3 inches to allow for a safe cut. You can place a piece of wood or something under the shrouds upper cover to hold it up and away from the radiator. We used a short 2×4 but anything will do. (You may want to place a towel in the engine compartment to keep it clean during the cutting process) Using your cutoff wheel cut across the shroud. Once completed slide shroud back down into lock tabs, your cut line should be 3/4 inches below the top of the radiator

INSTALLING THE VR SYSTEM
(NOTE) there are many clearance cuts in the VR tray assembly, we have done this to allow for vehicle variation and the many different applications from aftermarket intake manifolds to superchargers etc…Start by placing the tray onto the radiator, notice the heat pad that is pre attached under the tray. There are no brackets in this kit, the tray is a stressed member that is locked in place by the filter and MAF connection and the hood when it is closed. (Refer to front overview picture if needed) Using supplied hose (1) 3.5×1 inch for slip-fit and (1) 4.0X2.5 inch angle cut hose with PCV already fitted. Slide the angle cut hose over mouth of throttle body, with the straight side towards the motor and
the PCV line pointing at the 11 o’clock position as shown. Tighten onto throttle body using supplied hose clamp. (NOTE- check the transition inside from the hose ID to the ID of the throttlebody to ensure a smooth transition, you may slide the hose clamp forward if needed about 1/4 inch or so to ensure a good transition.) (There were multitude of variations on the 6 GTO’s we used for R&D, this combination is used on a stock vehicle with a stock intake manifold etc…)

Counter sink MAF “INTO” the VR filter assembly , simply bottom this out, we precut this to set the desired depth. Use supplied hose clamp and tighten completely. Now place the (1) 1×3.5 hose “OVER” the backside of the MAF. This is a slip fit hose to bring the back of the MAF up to 4.0” O.D. (NOTICE The filter is offset , this allows you to flip the filter by simply rotating it 180 deg. We do this because your throttle body sits at an angle of 8-10deg pointing upward. This just allows you to further compensate for vehicle variation to square everything up in the engine compartment. We like a clean factory racer look,so we have designed in lots of variation

Download All new Pontiac GTO/Holden Vararam – Super Duty Racing Cold Air Induction System PDF Instructions

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All new Pontiac GTO/Holden Vararam – Super Duty Racing Cold Air Induction System PDF Instructions

This installation is designed for cars, trucks, vans, and boats that have an existing radio opening. It can also be used as an option on some of the vehicles listed as requiring the AX-88-SNP kit. It will not work on all vehicles, but can be used on most newer Fords and many imports.
1. Inspect the Existing Radio Opening:
A. Use the trimplate supplied with the radio to cover the existing opening. If it completely covers the opening, you can install the radio as explained below. If it does not cover the opening, you will need an installation kit.
B. Check that there will be sufficient space behind the dashboard for the radio chassis.
2. Wire the Radio to the Vehicle’s Wiring:
A. In most cases it is easier to wire the radio before mounting it. Place the radio near the dashboard so the wires can be led through the opening.
B. Carefully follow the diagram on page 8 to wire the radio, making certain all connections are secure and insulated with wire nuts or electrical tape to insure proper operation of the unit.
C. After completing the wiring, turn the unit on to confirm operation (ignition switch must be “on”). If unit does not operate, re-check all wiring until problem is corrected. Once proper operation is achieved, turn off unit and ignition switch, and proceed with final mounting of the radio.
3. Mounting the Radio:
A. Thread a shaft nut half-way down each radio shaft.
B. Place a metal back-up plate on each radio shaft against the shaft nut.
C. Position the radio behind the dashboard opening so that the back-up plates are snug against the back of the opening. Adjust the shaft nuts behind the back-up plates so that the desired amount of radio extends through the opening. If possible, the best appearance is usually achieved when there is enough of the radio extending to be flush with the front of the trimplate.
D. Place the trimplate over the front of the radio and secure it with a shaft nut on each radio shaft.
E. Attach one end of the perforated support strap (supplied) to the screw stud on the radio using the hex nut provided. Fasten the other end of the perforated strap to a secure part of the dashboard either above or below the radio using the screw and nut provided. Bend the strap to position it as necessary. CAUTION: The rear of the radio must be supported with the strap to prevent damage to the dashboard from the weight of the radio or improper operation of the radio due to vibration.
F. Install knobs on radio shafts.

Important-This installation is designed for 1981 and older U.S. made GM cars, trucks, and vans. For 1981 and newer vehicles, an installation kit may be required. See Kit Listing on Page 1 of this manual or refer to the in-store application chart. If a kit is not required, use the following instructions.
1. Remove the Existing Radio:
A. Remove radio knobs and shaft nuts behind the knobs.
B. Locate and remove support brace at back of radio.
C. Push radio back into dashboard to access the wiring and antenna cables plugged into the rear of the chassis.
D. Un-plug the wiring harness(es) and antenna cable and remove the radio.
2. Wire the New Radio:
A. In most cases it is easier to wire the radio before mounting it. Place the radio near the dashboard so the wires can be led through the opening.
B. Carefully follow the diagram on page 8 to wire the radio, making certain all connections are secure and insulated with wire nuts or electrical tape to insure proper operation of the unit.
C. After completing the wiring, turn the unit on to confirm operation (ignition switch must be “on”). If unit does not operate, re-check all wiring until problem is corrected. Once proper operation is achieved, turn off unit and ignition switch, and proceed with final mounting of the radio.
3. Install the New Radio:
A. Thread a shaft nut half-way down each radio shaft.
B. Trim the top edge off of the nosepiece collar at the “CUT OFF FOR GM” mark and place the collar on radio nosepiece.
C. Place the radio behind dashboard and through the radio opening. Adjust the position of the shaft nuts so that the radio nosepiece and collar are flush against the back of the dashboard.
D. Secure the radio with a shaft nut on each radio shaft.
E. Attach one end of the perforated support strap (supplied) to the screw stud on the radio using the hex nut provided. Fasten the other end of the perforated strap to a secure part of the dashboard either above or below the radio using the screw and nut provided. Bend the strap to position it as necessary. CAUTION: The rear of the radio must be supported with the strap to prevent damage to the dashboard from the weight of the radio or improper operation of the radio due to vibration.
F. Install knobs on radio shafts.

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