Front installation (#011201, 121201)
1. Park the vehicle and a clean, flat surface and block the rear wheels for safety.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and support the frame with jack stands behind the lower control arms.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Disconnect the sway bar from the frame (2 bolts per side). Allow the sway bar to hang down. Retain sway bar mounting bolts.
5. Under the hood, locate the driver’s and passenger’s top strut mounting nuts (Fig. 2). Remove the two nuts hold each strut to the frame. CAUTION: DO NOT remove the center strut nut. It is under extreme pressure. Perform the following steps one side at a time, starting with the passenger’s side.
6. Remove the nut that mounts the strut to the lower control arm (Fig. 3). Retain nut.
7. Using a pitman arm puller or equivalent, remove the strut from the tapered mounting stud. Note: If a puller is not available, taper can be freed by striking with a hammer while prying out on the strut mount. (Fig. 4)
8. Remove the strut from the vehicle.
9. Mark the relationships between the top strut plate, coil spring, coil spring mount and strut (Fig. 5). Also mark what side of the strut faces out. The mark on the top plate will need to be transferred to the new top plate provided to ensure the strut is reassemble correctly for proper alignment during installation.
Chevrolet has launched the second generation of the Equinox, which rides on a highly modified version of the previous platform. The new Equinox is 1 cm shorter and 1 cm wider but otherwise similar in size to its predecessor. This compact crossover is offered with a choice of two new engines and in two- or all-wheel drive. It is available in LS, LT and LTZ trim levels. Interior and cargo area The Equinox is easy to access, and as the bottom of the doors is lower than the sills, the sills stay clean. The seats are comfortable and the driving position is good. Headroom and legroom are relatively generous. The backseat is comfortable for two adults, with plenty of headroom and legroom. The seat slides 20 cm forward and back. The seatback is divided 60/40 but not the cushion, which means that the two sections cannot slide forward and back individually, as they do in several competing vehicles. It’s unfortunate, because it reduces functionality.
Tools Required
19mm Socket
10″ Extension
Ratchet
Torque Wrench
Gross Load Capacity When Used As A Weight Carrying Hitch: 5,000 Lbs. Trailer Weight & 500 Lbs. Tongue Weight.
Gross Load Capacity When Used As A Weight Distribution Hitch: 6,000 Lbs. Trailer Weight & 600 Lbs. Tongue Weight
Front Lid Installation
STEP 1: Place the Front Lid in position over the Driver and Front Passenger seats, and fasten the front of the lid to the windshield (Diagram A)
STEP 2: Take 2 of the Joint Brackets (BRK-5) and place them on the bolt threads extending from the Fiberglass Lid, and hold them in place with 2 Speed Knobs (SKB-1).
STEP 3: After the Lid is in position, hook and close the front of the lid with the Windshield Cam Locks (It may be necessary to loosen the front factory cam locks with a Phillips head screwdriver for additional adjustment in some cases), and then tighten the Speed Knobs and Rear Brackets into place, so that the Joint Brackets (BRK-5) tighten against the cross bar of the vehicle. (Diagram B)
1. Prepare the work area. Since this installation requires handling turbocharger and exhaust components, the vehicle should be cold. A top-side
creeper will be a very valuable to ease this job. Alternatively, rolled shop towels can provide some cushion when laying over the engine while working on the turbocharger and exhaust pipes. Have a shop light handy.
2. Raise the hood fully. Locate and disconnect the negative lead from both batteries.
3. Raise the vehicle as per the manufacturer’s approved procedure. Failure to properly support the vehicle can result in serious injury or death. Remove the right front wheel/tire. Remove the right front fender inner liner. (Fig. 1)
4. Using a 7/16 deep socket, remove the exhaust pipe to the exhaust outlet clamp. Move the clamp onto the exhaust pipe.
5. If equipped with an automatic transmission, using a 13mm wrench, remove the transmission fluid fill tube to bell housing nuts. (Fig. 3)
6. Position the transmission fluid fill tube to the right side of the vehicle. The tube does not require removal from the transmission.
8. Using a 10mm socket, remove the left exhaust pipe heat shield bolts and insulators (4) . (Fig.4, one of four bolts shown)
9. Position the left exhaust pipe heat shield in order to access the left exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold bolts. Do not remove the heat shield from the vehicle at this time. Important: Do not bend the exhaust pipe at the expansion area.
10. Using a 12mm 12-point socket, remove the left exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold bolts (3). (Fig. 5)
11. Remove and discard the gasket. Important: Do not bend the exhaust pipe at the expansion area.
12. Using a 12mm 12-point socket, remove the right exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold bolts (3). Using a 14mm socket, remove the downpipe support bracket bolt. (Fig. 6.)
13. Remove and discard the gasket.
14. Remove the lower bolt for the exhaust outlet shield.
15. Lower the vehicle.
16. Loosen the outlet duct clamp at the upper intake manifold cover. (Fig. 7)
17. Remove the upper intake manifold cover from the outlet duct.
18. Pull the cover off of the pin at the rear of the the cover and remove upper intake manifold cover.
19. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Manufacturer’s recommended procedure.
20. Loosen the inlet duct clamps at the turbocharger and the mass air flow/intake air temperature sensor (MAF/IAT) sensor. (Fig. 
21. Remove the inlet duct from the turbocharger and MAT/IAT sensor.
Important: After removing the charge-air-cooler ducts, cover the turbocharger openings and the ducts with tape to prevent entry of debris.
22. Loosen both of the charge-air-cooler outlet duct to intake hose clamps. (Fig. 9)
Important: Do not use a screw driver or other tool to pry the hose loose. The hose can be torn or damaged. Loosen the hose by twisting.
23. Remove the hose from the charge-air-cooler duct to the intake manifold tube.
24. Loosen the clamp on the turbocharger compressor discharge hose. (Fig. 10) Important: Do not use a screw driver or other tool to pry the hose loose. The hose can be torn or damaged. Loosen the hose by twisting.
25. Remove the compressor discharge hose from the turbocharger compressor.
26. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch electrical connector. (Fig. 11)
27. Disconnect the A/C Cut Out switch electrical connector. (Fig. 12)
28. Remove the drive belt as per the manufacturer’s approved procedure.
29. With a 15mm socket, remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts (4).
30. Move the A/C compressor with the hoses attached to the right side of the engine compartment.
31. Disconnect the turbocharger outlet coolant hose from the coolant bypass valve (Fig. 13). Then remove the hose from the turbocharger water line. It will be reused in step 70.
32. Disconnect the turbocharger inlet coolant hose from the turbocharger. This hose is located under the wastegate actuator on the passenger-side of the turbo.
33. Disconnect the PCV hose from the tube assembly. (Fig. 14)
34. Position the hose out of the way.
Thank you for making HOOKER HEADERS your choice in a high-performance exhaust system. Extensive dyno/track testing has enabled HOOKER to offer the most advanced design in exhaust systems. The installation, while not complex, will take a certain amount of time. However, the additional horsepower and improved performance will more than justify your efforts. Proper installation and maintenance will ensure long life and maximum performance from your hooker exhaust system.
In a market that is diluted with brand names and products that fail to meet the standards of today’s discerning truck owner, Race Car Dynamics, Inc. continues to remain true to its commitment to produce superior components; delivering the quality, performance, and value you deserve. For the past ten years, Race Car Dynamics (RCD) has been the industry leader in suspension design, engineering, and quality. RCD Suspension pioneered subframe and spindle suspension design and technology and has changed the way we know light truck and SUV suspension systems today. Race Car Dynamics was also the first to utilize an application specific, high performance monotube shock absorber as a standard feature in every system we produce.
Parts List:
QTY:1 – Black Grillguard
QTY:2 – Mounting Brackets
QTY:2 – ½ x 5 ½” Hex Head Bolts
QTY:8 – ½ x 1 ½” Hex Head Bolts
QTY:10 – ½” Hex Nuts
QTY:20 – ½” Flat Washers
We designed the new 2011 Silverado HD to give you more where it matters most. Here’s how we combine the brawn you need to tow the heaviest loads with the brains to keep them secure while you’re on the road. More Powerful Engine. With more horsepower and torque than Ford or Dodge, the available Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel engine and Allison transmission tow up to 20,000 lbs.1 without breaking a sweat. More Muscular Backbone. Only Chevy offers the fully boxed, high-strength steel frame that handles 6,335 lbs. of payload,2 plus it gives you a more comfortable ride. More Trailering Confidence. Tow more confidently with Trailer Sway Control, Hill Start Assist and an exhaust brake system (diesel3).
More Miles Covered. 5-year/100,000 mile4 Powertrain Warranty. That’s 40,000 more miles than Ford. It’s the heavier-duty heavy-duty, and it’s coming summer 2010. Silverado HD. From Chevy — the most dependable, longest-lasting full-size pickups on the road.5
The Incomplete Vehicle Document (IVD) is supplied with each incomplete vehicle, and provides information that should be used by intermediate and final stage manufacturers in determining conformity to applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS). The IVD also includes information which must be followed in order to ensure that Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and California emissions certification requirements and NHTSA Fuel Regulations are met.
